Alternative, Easy, and Economical Bugout Shelter Options

For some Preppers a backup or quickly movable bugout shelter is a major concern. For everyone who plans to have a backup or bugout plan it should be a primary consideration. Shelter is rightly located in the top 3 of any critical priority needs list. Considering its important placement on these lists I offer one solution which might fit many needs. It is highly portable fitting in your backpack, lightweight, cheap, very fast to set up and take down, can be easily configured to provide protection from wind, rain, and insects, and is easily concealable. What is this wonder - the simple hammock.

Other configurations make this an ideal all-around, economical shelter solution. Since it is a hanging shelter it can be hung anywhere, and since it keeps you off the ground - you don't need to lose body heat to contact with the ground , or from rocks or roots under your sleeping bag.

No see-um netting keeps the pesky mosquito's off you.

These sources are a good starting place:

http://www.hammockbliss.com/Index.html



http://www.stylemexican.com/king_mexican_hammocks.html

http://www.seasidehammocks.com/~seasideh/home.php

http://www.tothewoods.net/HammockCamping.html

 http://www.warbonnetoutdoors.com/blackbirds.php

 http://www.speerhammocks.com/

With One CO2 System You Can Make Soda and Preserve Your Food -

Okay so recently I bought a couple of old used 20lb CO2 tanks very cheap. Then I got them filled with CO2 for, again – cheap. I then ordered a Regulator online for (you guessed it) …..cheap.

Then I bought an AIR blower wand, a tire inflater extension, some air hose (food safe), and various fittings and check valves for it.

 

Now the Plan comes together. I have two things in mind for this system.

1.                  A Preservation System for our Food Stores:

A Way to purge and then replace the Oxygen laden air in my food buckets with CO2. More specifically I plan to put the rice, beans, wheat, corn, and other food stuffs in my 5 gallon buckets into Mylar bags, then purge and replace the air with pure CO2 and then heat seal the bags. This will preserve the food in my buckets for many years.

2.                  An Economical Way to Make Homemade Soda

I have found several very thick and strong plastic soda bottles. I then bought several tire air nipples. Then I drilled a hole in the cap and screwed the nipple into the cap using the rubber washer to ensure it is a airtight fit.

To make homemade soda all we have to do is fill the bottles to about 4/5^th full of any liquid we like. Put the air nozzle cap on the bottle, open the CO2 regulator and adjust the pressure to about 60 psi. Then it’s as simple as filling up a tire.

 

You “air” up the bottle with the CO2 till it feels tight – you can actually feel the bottle getting firmer. Then you shake the bottle which forces the CO2 into solution. You know its working when you feel the sides of the bottle getting easier to squeeze again. Then you can do it again once or twice more to get the level of “fizz” you like.

We like to make soda water, lemonade soda, Orange juice soda, and you can always buy Cola, or root beer, or lemon lime syrup which mixes with water. It is easy and super cheap. We will be able to make soda for pennies per quart from now on.

Long Term Food Storage - Know the Facts

Long Term Food Storage Using Mylar Bags
& Oxygen Absorbers

(Reprinted from Optimum Emergency.com)

 CLICK HERE to see all Mylar Bags, Oxygen Absorbers, Desiccant & Heat Sealer

When deciding what kind of food storage arrangements to make for you and your family, you have several good options. You may choose food storage systems that are already pre-packed for long term storage and ready to be opened and eaten when an emergency strikes. That is an easy and commendable way to take care of your food storage needs. Plus the shelf life on these foods is an amazing 10 to 15 to 25 years due to the packaging!

However, there are some other excellent options for customizing how you store your food by doing it yourself. Or you may want to just add some special items to your food storage that aren’t in your ready-made food storage systems. Optimum Preparedness is excited to be offering the materials that use the latest technologies to allow you to do your own emergency long term food storage packaging. It is simple, safe and it lasts a long time.

Please read on to find out more about the great products we offer and how to do it yourself. You can package the food you want the way the professionals do it.

Remember, we are always glad to answer any questions you may have and assist you with recommendations regarding your specific food storage needs.

• Mylar Foil Bags
• Oxygen Absorbers
• Desiccants
• Clam Type Heat Sealer

Do It Yourself Food Storage

Mylar Bags

Many people line the 5 gallon pail with a 20.0" x 30.0" Mylar Foil bag and place dry food products in there for long term storage. Another option would be to consider placing numerous pre-packed smaller pouches inside.

   

Not Just For Food Storage

Mylar bags used in conjunction with oxygen absorbers are also a great way to preserve important books and other papers. We also sell a specially sized mylar foil bag that will accommodate rifles and shotguns. The mylar foil oxygen barrier bag is 12" x 60".
See item # H12MGB60 in our How To Hide Anything section.

 http://www.bonanza.com/listings/15-5-Gallon-20x30-Mylar-Pro-Foil-Barrier-Bags-15-2000cc-Oxygen-Absorbers/42780668

 http://www.sorbentsystems.com/mylar.html

 Oxygen Absorbers

These packets eliminate the presence of oxygen in foodstuffs such as grain and milk powder, ensuring long-term shelf stability. They are commonly seen in beef jerky where they prevent mold while eliminating the use of chemical preservative and have been used by the US military to extend the shelf-life of bread for combat troops to up to two years.

Note:  For information on how to make your own Oxygen absorbers - see earlier post on this blog

How much oxygen absorbent capacity do you need for standard containers?

We recommend 2000cc’s of oxygen absorbing capacity for 5 and 6 gallon pails. Thus, you could use 5 individual 300cc packets, or 3 individual 500 cc packets or 2 individual 750 cc packets. It is more cost effective (i.e. cheaper for you) to use 2 750cc packets rather than 3 of the 500cc packets per bucket, so we don’t sell the 500cc packets. We are watching out for you!

For a one gallon pail, jar or Mylar bag we recommend using one 300 cc oxygen absorber.

Concerned about humidity? Use a desiccant

If you are concerned about humidity affecting your food product (rice, wheat, beans and other dry grains.....) we have a clearly established protocol and procedure for providing a solution for this problem.

One to two individual 1 oz. packets of desiccant should be placed in the bottom of your Mylar Foil™ bag prior to filling with product. The oxygen absorber is then placed on top of the grain or beans for sealing. Note: This is the recommended procedure for the 20.0" x 30.0" bag (P/N: # F20MFS30) that is designed for 5 and 6 gallon pails. For some products that are already extremely dry and for which concern is minimal, you may use one packet.

For the smaller barrier bags (10" x 14" and 10" x 16") we recommend two of the 5.5 gram packets. Each packet is marked "1/6" on the outside.

IMPORTANT: The desiccant packets must be placed at the bottom of the pail or barrier bag or in the middle of the food products. The desiccant bags must not be close to the oxygen absorbers. Desiccants will negatively affect the performance of the oxygen absorber when close by. We supply desiccant bags made from Tyvek. Tyvek is a material acceptable for food product contact.

Sealing the Mylar Bags Properly

The mylar bags must be sealed properly for the whole thing to work as expected. You’ve got the food, the mylar bag that is more air-proof than a bucket, the oxygen absorber (or the CO2 gas purge and replacement) that will remove all the air so your food won’t go bad, but if you don’t seal that bag properly all your effort goes down the drain. Because the mylar bag is made out of a multi-layer material you CANNOT use a regular Food Saver or Seal A Meal unit to seal these bags. Those units just don’t reach a high enough temperature to do the job.

We have used, and found them to be EASY and quite effective - clothes irons. They get very hot and seal with ease leaving an air-proof sealed bag. Make sure you use the Linen or Cotton setting (cordless irons won’t work because they can’t sustain the high heat long enough – you need to be up at 400 degrees Farenheit or 204 degrees Celsius) For most irons, Linen is the highest setting, so that will be your best choice with an iron.  (Instructions for using an iron are just below the info on the heat sealer.)


Note: using the home iron works quite well, we were able to get great results using this method our first time. It produced a thick, airtight seal.

Options for Food Storage

Storage for Grains, Rice, Beans etc....

1. Food storage in a 5-6 Gallon Pail:

The Bag

Mylar Foil bag 20" x 30" – this bag fits inside a 5 or 6 gallon pail and needs to be used with oxygen absorbers and then heat sealed. Most companies selling pre–packaged grains use this bag when packing grains and other foods.

4.3 mil thickness Food Grade FDA approved mylar foil oxygen barrier bag
(order item # F20MFS30)

The Oxygen Absorbers

2 750cc oxygen absorbers for items like wheat, rice, whole oats and other grains and beans that pack fairly tight in a bucket will be sufficient for a minimum TWO YEAR shelf life. You could also use 5 of the 300cc oxygen absorbers (5 x 300cc = 1500cc). For food such as pasta, pet food and items that have a higher amount of residual air use the 2000cc oxygen absorbers. It is OK to use the 2000cc oxygen absorber in a bucket of wheat, rice and other items that use 2 750cc absorbers.

750 cc oxygen absorbers, 25 per bag, use 2 per pail (order item # FOAP750/25)
2000 cc oxygen absorbers, 10 per bag, use 1 per pail (order item # FOAP2000/10)

The Desiccant

One to two individual 1 oz. packets of desiccant should be placed in the bottom of your Mylar Foil™ bag prior to filling with product. The oxygen absorber is then placed on top of the grain or beans for sealing. For some products that are already extremely dry and for which concern is minimal, you may use one packet per pail

Desiccant 1 oz each - Pak of 50 (order item # F205050PK01)

The Optimum Hi-Temp Heat Sealer

Heat sealers are critical to provide a proper barrier to oxygen for barrier bags. We recommend the 6-inch "constant heat" Clam type hot jaw heat sealer. The jaws are sufficient to close any type of heat sealable multi-layer structure. They can be used to seal the standard 20" x 30" barrier bag used in the five-gallon pails as well as the smaller bags.

The Optimum Hi-Temp Hot Jaw Heat Sealer (order item # FIPKHS606T)

2. Food storage in a bag only in lieu of using a 5-6 Gallon Pail

The Bag

If you have a space or storage limitations, you can use this bag all by itself with no bucket or pail! The 20" x 30" PAKDRY7500 bag is made from Ultra high oxygen barrier Mylar Foil that is 7.5 mil and an FDA approved structure. This bag holds the same amount as a 5 or 6 gallon pail.

7.5 mil thickness Food Grade FDA approved mylar foil oxygen barrier bag
order item # FP75C2030)

The Oxygen Absorbers

Use the 2000cc oxygen absorber when using this bag without a pail whether you are storing grains, beans, etc or things like pastas.

2000 cc oxygen absorbers, 10 per bag, use 1 per pail (order item # FOAP2000/10)

IMPORTANT: Without the additional barrier of the plastic pail, it is important to use a 2000cc absorber to insure long term product quality.

The Desiccant

One to two individual 1 oz. packets of desiccant should be placed in the bottom of your Mylar Foil™ bag prior to filling with product. The oxygen absorber is then placed on top of the grain or beans for sealing. For some products that are already extremely dry and for which concern is minimal, you may use one packet.

Desiccant 1 oz each - Pak of 50 (order item # F205050PK01)

The Optimum Hi-Temp Heat Sealer

Heat sealers are critical to provide a proper barrier to oxygen for barrier bags. We recommend the 6-inch "constant heat" Clam type hot jaw heat sealer. The jaws are sufficient to close any type of heat sealable multi-layer structure. They can be used to seal the standard 20" x 30" barrier bag used in the five-gallon pails as well as the smaller bags.

The Optimum Hi-Temp Hot Jaw Heat Sealer (order item # FIPKHS606T)

3. Storage for 1 gallon volume (approximately equivalent to a #10 can)

The Bag

You can use either one of these 2 bags, which each hold the same volume as a #10 can which is equivalent in volume to a 1 gallon jar. This will be approximately 7.5 pounds of grains or beans.

Mylar Foil® bag 10" x 16" - 5.0 mil FDA Approved Material and equivalent in volume to a #10 can. (order item # F10VF4C16)
Mylar Foil® bag 10" x 14" - 3.5 mil FDA Approved Material and equivalent in volume to a one gallon container (order item # F35M1014)

The Oxygen Absorbers

For 10x16 or 10x14 bags (equivalent to #10 cans or a 1 gallon container), use 1 300cc oxygen absorber.

300 cc Oxygen Absorbers for #10 Cans & Gal Jars, 50 per bag (order item # FOAP300/50)

The Optimum Hi-Temp Heat Sealer

Heat sealers are critical to provide a proper barrier to oxygen for barrier bags. We recommend the 6-inch "constant heat" Clam type hot jaw heat sealer. The jaws are sufficient to close any type of heat sealable multi-layer structure. They can be used to seal the standard 20" x 30" barrier bag used in the five-gallon pails as well as the smaller bags.

The Optimum Hi-Temp Hot Jaw Heat Sealer (order item # FIPKHS606T)



         

ROTATE YOUR FOOD STORAGE!

Hi Temp Heat Sealers

Heat sealers are critical to provide a proper barrier to oxygen for barrier bags. We recommend the 6-inch "constant heat" Clam type hot jaw heat sealer. There are heat sealers out there that are fancier and that cost double the price, but this one does the job that needs to be done, and is designed to be used with the mylar foil oxygen barrier bags that you use for Long Term Food Storage. The jaws are sufficient to close any type of heat sealable multi-layer structure. They can be used to seal the standard 20" x 30" barrier bag used in the five-gallon pails as well as the smaller bags.

Hot Jaw Heat Sealer (order item # FIPKHS606T)

Note: FoodSaver and Seal-A-Meal vacuum sealers do NOT reach a high enough temperature to seal the mylar foil bags. You will not get a seal that will hold. Those vacuum sealers are designed specifically for the clear plastic bags sold to be used with them. They do make vacuum sealers that would work but a low end one is $1500 and they jump immediately into the $3500-$4500 range.

An alternative but not as easy way to seal the bags is to use your steam iron (with steam off) on the Linen or Cotton setting (cordless irons won’t work because they can’t sustain the high heat long enough – you need to up at 400 degrees Farenheit or 204 degrees Celsius) For most irons, Linen is the highest setting, so that will be your best choice with an iron. (For instructions on how to use your iron to seal the mylar bags CLICK HERE)

The Heat Sealing Process Illustrated

CLICK HERE to see all Mylar Bags, Oxygen Absorbers, Desiccant & Heat Sealer

Mylar Foil® Oxygen Barrier Bags

In the food processing area, these bags are known as oxygen barrier bags. Many people refer to them as Mylar® Foil bags because the outer layer of the bag is Mylar® Foil, which is a brand name for the DuPont Corporation's polyester film.

OXYGEN BARRIER BAGS (Mylar®FOIL BAGS) will greatly increase the shelf stability of your food products. Polyethylene pails are not a true oxygen barrier by themselves. The oxygen transmission rate (OTR) is critical. For example, our bags have a transmission rate of 0.001 cc's of oxygen per square meter per 24 hours. A clear Mylar®/poly bag is 0.5 cc's/ square meter/ 24 hours. This means the Mylar/poly bag is 500 (FIVE HUNDRED!) times greater.

WARNING: Some companies and people will try to tell you that clear "FOODSAVER" bags are good for long term storage. THEY ARE NOT. For long term food storage you should use the mylar foil oxygen barrier bags.

How do I know if I have the right type of Mylar Foil™ bags?

This is an extremely good question. The Mylar® foil bags that are used for long-term food storage were originally designed for exporting Macadamia nuts in bulk. This bag is 4.3 mils thick and appears to look like aluminum foil. Although the Mylar® foil layer is transparent, long-term food storage bags are NEVER transparent. Here at Optimum Preparedness we sell only FDA approved food grade mylar foil oxygen barrier bags made for long term food storage.

Another type of Mylar® Foil with which many consumers are familiar is the "Mylar® Foil balloon" that is often sold at supermarkets for birthdays and other occasions. The industrial name for the Mylar® Foil balloon material (NOT the same as the bags we sell!!) is metalized polyester. This is product mostly cosmetic and has minimal oxygen barrier properties.

Any concerned individual should be very wary of an organization trying to promote "transparent" barrier bags as a food storage bag. Long-term food storage should never be one of them. (One good example to watch for is the US Military MRE products. The packaging material used to produce the MREs has a very high oxygen barrier.)

What is the worst that can happen if I do not use a Mylar Foil™ bag inside my pail?

First the plastic pail is not an oxygen barrier (like a #10 can is) so there is a slow transmission of oxygen through the polyethylene walls of the container over time. According to grain processors, the most common problem is insect infestation. Nothing will eliminate this as certainly as an oxygen barrier bag and an oxygen absorber. (Gas flushing will always leave 2-5% oxygen minimum.)

Also, since the oxygen absorber will actually remove 20.5 % of the air that is within the container, it is possible for the absorber to pull in the wall of the container (the vacuum effect) to such a degree that the lid separates from the pail.

IMPORTANT: IF THE LID, WHICH SHOULD HAVE A GASKET, SEPARATES FROM THE BUCKET ENOUGH TO CREATE EVEN A VERY VERY SMALL OPENING THE OXYGEN ABSORBER WILL BE DEPLETED WITHIN 72 hours MAXIMUM. THIS IS WHY THE HIGH QUALITY FOOD PACKERS USE A 4.3 MIL Mylar BAG INSIDE THEIR PLASTIC PAILS.

Food Storage Packing 101

Food Storage Packing - Do-it-yourself Facts & Myths

By Denis Korn

Know the facts about do-it-yourself packing!

The purpose of this article is to present specific details and recommendations for packing your own shelf stable foods for food storage, including what works and what doesn’t in creating an oxygen free atmosphere for long term food storage, and the common misconceptions of how to do your own packing will be covered.  While there are many different types of dried foods that can be stored for extended periods of time, most folks are interested in how best to store grain and bean products.
Some material will be repeated in this article that has been covered in previous articles concerning the use of oxygen absorbers, storage conditions, and 30 year shelf life claims.  While I could write a book on every specific detail of every packing option and all the technical specifications of all available packing containers, it is not the purpose of this article.  I will cover important highlights, facts, insights, and information gained from over 37 years in the preparedness and outdoor recreation industry.  It is important to keep in mind that I have not only been a retailer of preparedness and outdoor foods, I have been a manufacturer, developer of hundreds of recipes, packaging and product  innovator, and researcher of shelf stable foods.
Some of the material presented here will contradict and challenge information available on the web or in some do-it-yourself circles.  Many people assume preparedness information to be accurate without careful consideration of the expertise of the source or the validity of the facts.  I encourage you to research on your own any of the information presented in this article – or in any article for that matter – and to use basic critical thinking skills to evaluate the evidence and data you are offered.  A little common sense goes a long way in assessing many of the claims being made about shelf life and do-it-yourself issues.  I talk about the issue of trust and reliability in my articles: Who do you Trust?, The Research and Evaluation Process, and Purchasing Food Reserves – The Essential Questions.

Basics

Before you start packing your foods, be clear about what it is you want to store and for how long.  Are the foods appropriate for your plans?  Do you know how to prepare them?  Do you have an adequate quantity?  Do you have all the equipment necessary to prepare your foods?  What is the nutritional quality?  I suggest you study the key foundational information in my article Beginning and Improving Preparedness Planning.
This is an article dealing with dry food products with a low to very low moisture content – depending upon the item usually between 2 and about 10 %.  Products can include grains, beans, seeds, dehydrated or freeze-dried fruits and vegetables, seasonings, and powders and flours.
Grains and beans can be whole or processed into numerous forms.  Keep in mind that when a whole grain or bean is processed it can compromise the integrity of a natural barrier, expose any oils, and begin a process of oxidation or rancidity leading to a shortened shelf life.  Some processed bean products, such as TVP (Textured Vegetable Protein) have been defatted to insure a longer shelf life, and some grains have naturally lower oil content.  Because of the position of the germ in rice, brown rice is not appropriate for long term storage.  Also, because white flour has no wheat germ, it will last significantly longer than whole wheat flour.  Research the products you are storing to determine both the moisture and oil content.
What are the goals and expectations for your food preparedness planning?  What are you hoping to accomplish and for whom and how many?  How realistic are your plans?  How long do you want your stored foods to be palatable – edible – nutritious – agreeable?  Be honest.  I once again refer you to another very helpful article in assisting you in preparedness planning: The 12 Crucial Questions of Preparedness Planning.
Why oxygen free?
At the end of this article I have included information on the 6 critical conditions for storing food.  In this section we explore the need for an oxygen free atmosphere when storing food for long periods.  Basically there are 2 reasons for wanting to store food in an oxygen free environment – eliminate the possibility for infestation from insects and microorganisms, and control oxidation, which leads to the rancidity of fats and oils, foul taste, off color, and nutritional deterioration.  The lower the oxygen levels – the more effective in preserving the integrity of the foods stored.  Some foods are more susceptible to oxidation deterioration than others.  It is important to know how susceptible the foods you are storing are to oxidation, because as you will see the type of container you store your foods in may at some point no longer be an adequate oxygen barrier.  Research by Mitsubishi Gas Chemical Company, the inventors of oxygen absorbers and manufacturer of the Ageless® brand absorber, indicates that in an oxygen free atmosphere (their absorbers can reduce the residual oxygen level in the proper container to 0.1% or less) all adults, larvae, pupae, and eggs of the most prevalent dry food insects are killed within 14 days.
If oxidation and elimination of all stages in an insect’s development by eliminating available oxygen is not an issue, there are other methods that can be utilized with varying effectiveness in controlling insect infestation.  Options include:

• Exposure to freezing temperatures for an adequate length of time (this may kill adults and larvae but not all eggs)
• Using bay leaves and other aromatic herbs to inhibit insect reproduction
• Using food grade diatomaceous earth to kill adults (the microscopic very sharp texture of the particles pierce the bodies of the insects and they dehydrate and die).  In this case the live adult must come into contact with the diatomaceous earth.  Some folks put the material on the bottom of a container hoping the insects will go there, while others coat all the contents of a container with a fine layer of material and wash it off when it is time to consume the food.

Methods of reducing residual oxygen levels when you pack your own

Utilize an oxygen absorber – properly (see the very informative article Using and About Oxygen Absorbers)
Pro:

• Very effective in reducing residual oxygen levels – in my opinion it is the most effective technology available today.
• Relatively inexpensive and easy to use if done properly.
• Harmless components – iron oxide.
• Easily obtainable.

Con:

• This product was developed for use by professional food companies who understand how to properly use and store it.  There are important guidelines which must be followed for the absorber to work properly and not lose its effectiveness.  The do-it-yourself person will defeat the purpose of using this technology if the guidelines and instructions are not properly followed.  It is imperative that the absorber user obtain all necessary information from a qualified supplier on its correct use. (Using and About Oxygen Absorbers)
• The absorber user needs to do their homework and make sure the correct sized absorber is being utilized for both the size of the container and food product packed.

Insert a wand into a pouch, can, bucket, or jar and attempt to replace the atmosphere by squirting it with nitrogen (the most commonly used inert gas)
Pro:

• Fairly easy to do
• Relatively inexpensive

Con:

• Without the proper testing equipment there is no way for the pack your own person to know the residual oxygen levels of their containers.  If the levels are too high, you have defeated the purpose for which you intended.  How much nitrogen to use and the length of time to insert it into the container are both speculation and assumption.  Do you want to rely on guess work?
• When removing the wand and sealing the container some amount of oxygen will be introduced into the container, which will affect the atmosphere in the container.
• To achieve the desired effect of a very low residual oxygen level this method has many weaknesses.  (NOTE: Before the days of the oxygen absorber, companies such as mine used elaborate equipment designed to draw a vacuum and nitrogen flush in a chamber.  The goal was a residual oxygen level of 2% or lower, because this was the military specification for long term storage of foods in a #10 size metal can.  Even with the proper equipment reaching these residual levels required experience, testing, and effective methodology.  Can “wanding” by hand achieve these levels?)

The dry ice method – There was a time (and there may still be) when folks would put dry ice at the bottom or top of a container, leave the lid slightly ajar, wait for the ice to evaporate, and then seal the lid.  This method has so many problems that I won’t bother to give it pros and cons.  It is not recommended.
Use a home model vacuum sealer with either a plastic pouch or available attachment to put over a jar
Pro:

• Equipment is easily accessible
• Can be effective for short term storage
• Easy to use

Con:

• Equipment and extra pouches can be costly
• The vacuum pulled (measured in inches of mercury) may be helpful for short term use, however is neither strong enough nor effective for a long term storage requirement.  The plastic pouches and jar seams are not designed to hold a vacuum for extended periods (longer than 1-2 years).

Go to a cannery –  You can do your own canning of your own product in #10 metal cans.  Some canneries will sell you cans and bulk foods.
Pro:

• Very effective method for long term food storage – metal cans are the best containers
• Depending on the cannery, costs can be low for using the equipment
• You can easily insert an oxygen absorber into the cans for maximum shelf life

Con:

• While metal cans are the most effective containers, they can be costly and very difficult to obtain in smaller quantities
• Canneries are not readily available to most folks – most are sponsored by members of the Mormon Church, check on usage and membership requirements, hours of operation, and costs at each cannery
• You’ll need the proper vehicle to transport bulk foods and cans

Use a manually operated or electric, smaller, model open top can seam sealer
Pro:

• Very effective method for long term food storage – metal cans are the best containers
• You have significant flexibility as to when to use the sealer, and with whom it is to be shared
• You can easily insert an oxygen absorber into the cans for maximum shelf life
• They are easy to use once you get the hang of it

Con:

• They can be expensive
• You must do your homework and determine the best manufacturer and model
• You must make sure you are operating them correctly and that the seams are being sealed properly
• You need access to a supply of cans

Containers

Of all the issues relating to packing your own shelf stable foods, the most effective container to use can be the most confusing and misrepresented.  As stated in the beginning of this article be clear about what you are storing, how much, and for how long.
Plastic buckets (HDPE – high density polyethylene) – 5 and 6 gallon round and square sizes with handles are very popular for packing grains, beans, and other commodities in bulk
Pro:

• A convenient container to store larger quantities of dry foods – stores and stacks well, is compact, and can be carried easily.
• Inexpensive new and can be obtained used from a number of sources.
• A thick walled (90 mil) container with the proper gasket can be used effectively to control the atmosphere within for up to 1 to 3 years.
• Can be used in conjunction with foil pouches for convenience of storage.
• You can use multiple foil pouches stored in the bucket for convenience of use.
• Insects don’t easily penetrate the thick walls.
• Can withstand some rough handling.
• Because insects at all stages are destroyed within about 14 days, the short term effectiveness of using an oxygen absorber to create an oxygen free environment is useful.

Con:

• HDPE is a permeable (porous – albeit microscopic) material and gas transmission rates (the length of time gases such as oxygen will travel through a given material) indicate that it will take 1 to 3 years for the atmosphere within the bucket to match the atmosphere outside (our normal atmosphere is normally about 21% oxygen and 79% nitrogen with a very small amount of other gases such as carbon dioxide).  This means that if you started with an oxygen free or low level to begin with, that over time the oxygen level in the bucket will continue to increase until it reaches parity or equality with the normal atmosphere.
• If you want the atmosphere to remain constant inside your container, or be oxygen free for extended periods of time, HDPE plastic buckets are not appropriate – check with the manufacturers (as I have done) and find out their specifications and recommendations for your needs and the specific container you want to use.
• The ability to maintain whatever atmosphere you desire within the container will depend not only on the quality of the HDPE walls, but also the integrity of the gasket seal.
• HDPE will absorb odors and they will eventually permeate into the contents of the bucket.  Direct packed foods will also absorb the odor.  Do not store plastic buckets in areas that have a strong smell. (NOTE: Foil pouches within a bucket will prolong the odor absorption)
• Rodents and other animals can easily break into plastic buckets.
• Not recommended for long term storage (3+ years) of directly packed foods.

Pouches – There are literally thousands of possible combinations of materials and sizes available to create a pouch that will contain food.  Normally a food manufacturer or packer goes to a company that specializes in manufacturing pouches and gives the company their specifications and requirements for the specific foods to be packed.
IMPORTANT NOTE:  It is common these days among those who sell empty pouches for food storage, or food already in pouches, to use the term “Mylar pouch.”  This is very misleading.  By itself the term can mean anything and it tells you nothing of importance so that you can make the appropriate decisions on what pouch to use.  The “Mylar” brand is the registered trademark name of a PET polyester film manufactured by DuPont Teijin Films.  They produce hundreds of variations of this polyester resin material.  It is a component used in the production of many variations of packaging material.  It can be clear or opaque such as in wrappers for food bars or Mylar balloons – that look “metalized” yet contain no foil.  Mylar by itself is not an appropriate material for long term pouched food.  Ask you supplier what they mean when they say “Mylar.”
For those reading this article the requirements needed are to pack dry foods for the long term.  If you buy stock pouches from a distributor you need to tell them what you plan to put in it and what your expectations are for the long term.  You should insist on knowing the specifications (especially the gas and vapor transmission rates) of the pouch and whether they suit your needs.
If you want a pouch that gives you the longest possible shelf life for your foods, you will need a laminated pouch consisting of multiple components and layers.  As far as pouches are concerned, one of those layers must be foil (NOTE: All plastics are gas and vapor permeable – some rates are very high – meaning that gases transmit through them very quickly – and some plastics both individually and in combination have slower rates).  Only quality foil is a non-permeable gas and moisture barrier – that is foil without microscopic holes)
Ask the distributor the specifications of the pouch, the different components used – not only for barrier properties but also for durability, the transmission rates if not foil, if foil – its thickness, and the reliability and reputation of the manufacturer.
Pro:

• The variety of available sizes offers flexibility in choices of quantities to store.
• Costs are reasonable.
• Can be effective as a short term oxygen free container.
• Small pouches of food can be very useful for bartering and distributing among those in need during in an emergency.

Con:

• Not recommended for very long term packaging of products for an oxygen free environment.  Shelf life of pouched foods is recommended for 3 to 10 years depending on type of food product, storage conditions, handling, and composition packaging materials.
• Excessive or rough handling, loss of seal integrity, and pressure of sharp edges on the pouch from the products within can create “pin holes” (microscopic holes in the pouch material) that eventually will cause gases to be transmitted through the pouch (NOTE: I am concerned when I see and hear some folks instructing people to cram and squeeze foil pouches into plastic buckets).
• Rodents and other creatures can easily penetrate pouch material.

Metal cans – For food storage purposes #10 size (about 7/8 gal) and #2 ½ size (about 7/8 qt) are the most popular used with the proper can sealers.  It is possible, if you keep searching, to find 5 gallon square metal cans with a large pressure lid on the top side.  These are ideal for bulk food storage, although they may be hard to find (NOTE: I sold these cans packed with foods at AlpineAire Foods about 20 years ago).  You also may want to consider clean or new metal garbage cans as a means to store smaller size foil pouched foods.
Pro:

• Ideal for long term food storage.  The atmosphere within the cans, with the proper sealing, can remain oxygen free indefinitely.
• Metal is non-permeable for gas and vapor – a zero transmission rate.
• Difficult for rodents or animals to penetrate.
• Can withstand some rough handling.

Con:

• Costs can be higher than other materials.
• Extra attention must be given to proper sealing.
• Some metal containers may be difficult to obtain.
• Some cans may rust if exposed to moisture.

Glass
Pro:

• Excellent for long term food storage.  The atmosphere within the jars, with the proper sealing, can remain oxygen free indefinitely.
• Glass is non-permeable for gas and vapor – a zero transmission rate.
• Difficult for rodents or animals to penetrate.
• Easily obtainable and relatively inexpensive.

Con:

• Very fragile – must be stored and handled with care.
• Practical only in smaller size containers.

Personal recommendations and tips for long term pack your own food storage

First choice – if possible store foods in metal cans with the proper size oxygen absorber
Second choice –

• Pack foods in a heavy duty foil laminate pouch with the proper size oxygen absorber.  I prefer using a variety of smaller size pouches rather than one large pouch.
• If you seal the pouch with an iron – as opposed to a commercial impulse sealer – make sure you know the proper method to use.  If your seal isn’t adequate you are wasting your time and money using an absorber.
• Place the foil pouches carefully – to avoid “pin holes” and seam damage, into another larger plastic or metal container (NOTE: Sturdy cardboard boxes will do if infestation from insects, rodents, and other animals is of no concern).  This will facilitate handing and storage.
• When you use the proper size oxygen absorber in a foil pouch it will create a slight vacuum and the pouch will tighten up somewhat (Remember you are not creating a complete vacuum that would produce a brick hard pack, you are only removing about 21% of the air volume – it will be absorbed by the iron oxide in the oxygen absorber sachet).
• Periodically – especially in the first two weeks – check on the pouch to make sure it still looks tightened up.  If at some point it looks normal, then the integrity of the pouch has been compromised and the atmosphere in the pouch has equalized with the outside atmosphere.

I see no point in putting additional oxygen absorbers into the plastic bucket or container in which the foil pouch is placed.
Third Choice

• If you have a smaller quantity of dry goods to store and you can protect or store foods safely – use glass jars.  Either half gallon size Ball canning jars or one gallon size jars – both need lids with a small rubber seal on the lid to create an air tight container.
• Drop an appropriate size oxygen absorber in the jar then seal it tight.
• Store away from light.

Tips

• I do not recommend using the nitrogen “wand” method of atmosphere replacement in pouches, plastic, or metal containers if you want to create a truly oxygen free environment.
• The oxygen absorber properly used is the best method for creating an oxygen free environment.
• Certain foods packed for long term storage may not need an oxygen free atmosphere.  I have covered the reasons for creating this type of environment earlier, and your specific needs may focus only on containers and storage conditions.
• I do not recommend storing commodities in their original paper or cloth sacks or boxes for the long term – unless you possess a very secure and unique storage facility.  The important issue here is infestation and environmental influences such as heat, moisture, and other airborne contaminants.
• Periodically inspect your food reserves for any sign of infestation or contamination.
• Read my article on Using and About Oxygen Absorbers.

Storage Conditions

There are six conditions to be aware of when storing food for emergency preparedness food storage, or outdoor recreation.  The foods being referred to in this post are shelf-stable freeze-dried, dehydrated, dried commodities.  Optimal storage conditions can also be applied to wet pack:  retort, MRE’s, canned goods, and other specialty longer term wet pack foods.
NOTE:  The six conditions listed are chosen because these are factors in which we have the control to optimize for the longest reliable shelf life.  TIME is the one factor that we can not control – and it does have a significant effect on the shelf life of various foods.  Nutritional value is lost with many foods over time.  To know with certainty the viable nutritional value of all food reserve items at any given time after a lengthy period of storage – is at best complex or most likely mere conjecture and guesswork.  What we can do is to apply proper planning procedures – do your research with trusted resources, rotate and consume your storage foods, and be realistic about how long you will really need the foods you choose to store.

• Temperature- This is the primary factor affecting the storage life of foods.  The cooler the better. 40 degrees-50 degrees would be great. Room temperature (65 degrees-72 degrees) or below is generally fine.  Avoid above 90 degrees for extended periods of time. The longer food is exposed to very high temperatures the shorter the edible life and the faster the degeneration of nutritional value.  Note:  There are some “foods” available for emergency preparedness that are known as “emergency food or ration bars.”  These products are generally referred to as “life raft bars” because they were originally designed for life rafts and can withstand high heat for extended periods of time.  They primarily consist of white sugar and white flour, and were not meant to be the sole source of nutrition for a long period of time.
• Moisture- The lower the better.  Moisture can deteriorate food value rapidly and create conditions that promote the growth of harmful organisms.  The moisture level contained in foods varies depending on the type of product it is.  Have foods in moisture barrier containers (metal, glass) in high humidity areas. Note:  Mylar bags or plastic buckets are not a long term (over 3 years) moisture or oxygen barrier. The moisture and gas transmission rates through these materials vary depending upon the specifications of the manufacturers.  Plastic absorbs gases, moisture, and odors.  Note:  Be careful where you store dry foods in cans.  Very cold flooring or any condition where there is a dramatic temperature differential may cause a build up of condensation inside the container.
• Oxygen – A high oxygen environment causes oxidation, which leads to discoloration, flavor loss, odors, rancidity and the breakdown of nutritional value in foods. It also allows insects to feed on dried food reserves. Without oxygen, insects cannot live, nor can aerobic (oxygen dependent) organisms. Whole grain and beans have natural oxygen barriers and can store for long periods of time in low humidity and if free from infestation. All other processed grains, vegetables, fruits, etc. must be in a very reduced (2% or less) oxygen environment for long term storage.  Note:  Mylar bags or plastic buckets are not a long term (over 3 years) moisture or oxygen barrier. The moisture and gas transmission rates through these materials vary depending upon the specifications of the manufacturers.  Plastic absorbs gases, moisture, and odors.  The best long term storage containers are glass and metal.
• Infestation – Examples include rodents, insects in all their stages of growth, mold, microorganisms, and any other creatures that get hungry – large or small.  The proper packaging and storage conditions are required to control infestation and not allow critters to both get into the food, or have the necessary environment for them to flourish if they are sealed into a container – such as in the form of eggs or spores.
• Handling – Rough handling can not only damage the food itself, but it can also adversely effect and compromise the integrity of the container in which the food is stored.  Glass of course can break; any pouched item can develop pin holes, tears, or cracks.  The seams on buckets and cans can be tweaked, twisted, or damaged to allow oxygen to enter the container.
• Light – Food should not be stored in direct sunlight.  Both for the potential of high temperature, and its affect on food value.  Sunlight directly on stored foods can destroy nutritional value and hasten the degeneration of food quality, taste, and appearance.  Foods packed in light barrier containers do not pose a problem with the affects of light.

Make Your Own Oxygen Absorber for Food Storage

Most commercial oxygen absorbers are nothing more than fine iron powder mixed with a polymer grain to allow air circulation through the powder – the rusting of the iron powder depletes the container’s contents of oxygen.  It’s that simple.  It’s also very easy to replicate that process.

Materials:

• Steel Wool ‘0000′ superfine (don’t use “SOS” pads)
• Salt (table salt is fine)
• Paper towels
• Stapler

Depending on the container size, take a wad of steel wool and lay it on a open paper towel.  Sprinkle table salt over the steel wool and work it into the fibers.  Then fold the towel over and staple it into an envelope shape. Done....

The salt’s acidity activates corrosion of the fine steel wool and the rusting of the steel absorbs oxygen in the container. Just leave a wad of steel wool outside overnight to see this process in fast forward … you don’t even need the salt for that experiment.

Keep all your unused DIY Oxygen Absorbers in air-tight freezer bags until you need them.

A Basic Starter SHTF or Disaster Preparedness Plan

Getting Started

Preparedness can definitely be overwhelming, especially for people starting out, or people without a large budget. There are so many things to do that it might be tempting to quit before you start! or get so discouraged you can get depressed. 

This post offers a systematic, step-by-step plan for getting started. Here is a month-by-month calendar of tasks to complete so you'll be on top of emergency preparedness, financial preparedness, and basic food storage. After you've gone through the calendar once, start over again at the beginning, maintaining and improving upon what you've already accomplished. 

Months	Emergency Preparedness	Financial Preparedness	Food Storage (Very Basic 1-yr Plan)
Jan	Take first-aid & CPR training. Post emergency #s by phones.	Make a will/trust. If you have one, review & update it if necessary.	Store 7-10 gallons of water per person.
Feb	Update first aid kit and have extra medicines purchased.	Commit to save a set amount each month. Set up an automatic transfer from your checking to a savings vehicle.	Store 200 lbs of wheat and/or flour or whole grains per adult (approx cost $30-40 each). Also store 10 lbs of salt per person (approx cost $2 each).
Mar	Obtain flashlights, batteries, transistor radio (or check existing).	If you are carrying unnecessary debt, create a debt-elimination calendar and begin paying off the debt (see "One for the Money," p. 5).	Store 10 lbs of powdered milk per adult (approx cost $10 each).
Apr	Create a family plan in case of disaster (where to gather, where 72-hr kits are, emergency phone #s, etc.).	Set up a basic household budget, using any method that fits your needs. Begin tracking family expenses in a way that's useful to you.	Store 25-30 lbs of sugar/honey per adult (approx cost $7-12 each).
May	Begin researching a firearm purchase. You can find lots of great information on THIS BLOG. You may want to start with a shotgun - as they are cheap and offer immediate protection without much training. Also collect kerosene lamp, fuel, & matches.	Review your insurance needs (home, life, health, auto etc.) Ensure you have adequate insurance.	Store 30 lbs of dried beans/legumes per adult (approx cost $15 each). Or store canned beans if you wish.
June	Create a Go-Bag - including first aid supplies, food, water, coins/cash, flashlight, sleeping bag, water/water filter, gun/knife	Dedicate an evening to teach your kids about using money wisely. Make sure children & spouses know where important financial papers (especially wills) are located.	Store 10 lbs of fat/oil per adult (cost varies).
Jul	Anticipate what kids might need to cope with disaster. Add to 72-hr kit.	Create a filing system for your important financial papers.	Store 7-10 gallons of water per person.
Aug	Gather important personal items (birth certificates, photos, videos) and place in safe deposit box or other secure location away from home.	Copy all important financial papers and place copies in a safe deposit box or other secure location away from your home. You may wish to place certain important documents in 72-hr kits.	Store 200 lbs of whole grains/flour per adult (cost varies).
Sep	Gather clothing, bedding, first aid kit, flashlights, batteries, radio, food & water in 72-hr kit you can grab & run.	If you don't already have one (shame on you). Research and purchase a tactical rifle - this is an AR15, AK47, AK74 or other variant.	Store 10 lbs of powdered milk per adult (approx cost $10 each).
Oct	Educate yourself by reading a book or article on disaster preparedness.	Create a net worth statement by listing all assets & liabilities.	Store 25 lbs of sugar/honey per adult (approx cost $7-12 each).
Nov	Learn/review how to turn off electricity, water, & gas. Put crowbar, wrench, & shovel in 72-hr kit.	Walk through your house with a camcorder or camera to create a visual record of important assets.	Store 30 lbs of dried beans/legumes per adult (approx cost $15 each). Or store canned beans if you wish.
Dec	Research and purchase (if possible) a Handgun for each adult in your family. Again good research material can be found on this blog site.	Prepare yourself and make plans to purchase a bare minimum of 2,000 rds of ammunition for each rifle, 1,000 rds of ammunition for each handgun, and 400-600 shotshells.	Store 10 lbs of fat/oil per adult (cost varies).

An introduction to strategic Prepping - Installment 1

Chapter 1:    INTRODUCTION

To be Independent – Learn to think and live independently

REDUCE YOUR DEBT: Reducing ones debt to as close to zero as possible is essential. That may involve selling off some of your real estate investment, moving to a smaller home, refinancing your home mortgage to a 15-year loan, and eliminating your credit cards. Stop paying interest. Do not be dependent on the government for your well-being. Try to be as independent and self reliant as possible for your income.

Finance:
Take control of your finances. Read many alternate sources of information. Do your homework. Be driven to understand what is going on and more importantly what it means to you. Avoid states of denial. Become as independent as possible. Make yourself save as much as you can. Most people live above their means. Learn to live below your means. If you save a minimum of 10% per month, you can grow your wealth very safely. Some can save 20%-25%.

Diversify your investments; include investments in Swiss money instruments, gold, different currencies.  Owning tangible assets such as junk silver coins is an ideal way to preserve wealth in an economic collapse.
Avoid weak financial institutions. Get out of harm's way. Many banks, brokerage house, S& Ls and insurance companies are tottering on the brink of disaster or close to it in the event of a market downturn. And in spite of the perception to the contrary, there is no substantive insurance safety net under these institutions.

Avoid popular investment markets. There are few goof-proof opportunities for conservative investors. Stocks are overvalued. If you own stocks have stops in place. Corporate bonds are vulnerable and will drop as U.S. interest rates rise. Be very selective in investment real estate. Commodities are out of favor and at bargain prices. All things are cyclical and go from being under valued to over valued.

Find investment safe havens. The three best and most conservative investments to put your money into over the next few years are gold and silver, foreign government bond funds, and U.S Treasury bill money market funds. Don't announce to the world what you are doing; keep a low profile. Legally “bulletproof” your business and personal matters. America is the most litigious country in the world, with 700,000 lawyers and 187 million new civil lawsuits per year. Every doctor, professional businessperson or business owner has a nightmare about being sued into ruin. Incorporate your belongings with an LLC or a trust – in this way you own nothing, but control everything. Therefore you cannot lose it to a lawsuit.

Pay Attention

Check your mindset about the news, about investments and about your financial security – is your information reliable – does it stand up to independent research. To survive the coming hard times, you must vigilantly control the way you do things, the way you think, and the way you invest. You must read between the lines in today's news reports ... find alternative investments and financial institutions ...and plan for the future.

Food and Water

Purchase and maintain a one-year food supply (to start) – then  have a large water source, such as 55 gallon water barrels. Own tangible assets or commodities that can be bartered or traded.

Live Independently
Finally, buy remote acreage with cash – eliminate debt – all debt……and ultimately buy or build an off-the grid, sustainable home in a small town or rural community that can serve as a home and your family retreat or place of refuge.

It is dangerous to be right, when the government is wrong

Voltaire

Chapter 2:    BACKGROUND:      

Case Study:         The Worst Episode of Hyperinflation in History – Yugoslavia 1993-1994 – or Why you should not believe everything you are told.

Under Tito Yugoslavia ran a budget deficit that was financed by printing money. This led to rates of inflation of 15 to 25 percent per year. After Tito the Communist Party pursued progressively more irrational economic policies. These irrational policies and the breakup of Yugoslavia (Yugoslavia now consists of only Serbia and Montenegro) led to heavier reliance upon printing or otherwise creating money to finance the operation of the government and the socialist economy. This created the worst hyperinflation in history up to this time.

By the early 1990s the government used up all of its own hard currency reserves and proceeded to loot the hard currency savings of private citizens. It did this by imposing more and more difficult restrictions on private citizens access to their hard currency savings in government banks.

The government operated a network of stores at which goods were supposed to be available at artificially low prices. In practice these store seldom had anything to sell and goods were only available at free markets where the prices were far above the official prices that goods were supposed to sell at in government stores. In particular, all of the government gasoline stations eventually were closed and gasoline was available only from roadside dealers whose operation consisted of a parked car with a plastic can of gasoline sitting on the hood. The market price was the equivalent of $8 per gallon.

The combination of the shortage of gasoline and the government confiscation of German Deutsche mark deposits created a bazaar episode. A man after repeated attempts to get the government to let him withdraw his Deutsche mark deposits as Deutsche marks announced the was going to commit suicide in front of a government building by dousing himself with gasoline and igniting it. On the appointed day he showed up with a canister of gasoline. The media was there to film his protest. The police were also there and arrested the man. Afterwards the television station got numerous phone calls asking what had happened to the canister of gasoline.

Most car owners gave up driving and tried to rely upon public transportation. But the Belgrade transit authority (GSP) did not have the funds necessary for keeping its fleet of 1200 buses operating. Instead it ran fewer than 500 buses. These buses were overcrowded and the ticket collectors could not get aboard to collect fares. Thus GSP could not collect fares even though it was desperately short of funds.

Delivery trucks, ambulances, fire trucks and garbage trucks were also short of fuel. The government announced that gasoline would not be sold to farmers for fall harvests and planting.

Despite the government desperate printing of money it still did not have the funds to keep the infrastructure in operation. Pot holes developed in the streets, elevators stopped functioning, and construction projects were closed down. The unemployment rate exceeded 30 percent.

The government tried to counter the inflation by imposing price controls. But when inflation continued the government price controls made the price producers were getting ridiculous low they stopped producing. In October of 1993 the bakers stopped making bread and Belgrade was without bread for a week. The slaughter houses refused to sell meat to the state stores and this meant meat became unvailable for many sectors of the population. Other stores closed down for inventory rather than sell their goods at the government mandated prices. When farmers refused to sell to the government at the artificially low prices the government dictated, government irrationally used hard currency to buy food from foreign sources rather than remove the price controls. The Ministry of Agriculture also risked creating a famine by selling farmers only 30 percent of the fuel they needed for planting and harvesting.

Later the government tried to curb inflation by requiring stores to file paper work every time they raised a price. This meant that many of the stores employees had to devote their time to filling out these government forms. Instead of curbing inflation this policy actually increased inflation because the stores tended increase prices by a bigger jump so that they would not have file forms for another price increase so soon.

In October of 1993 the created a new currency unit. One new dinar was worth one million of the old dinars. In effect, the government simply removed six zeroes from the paper money. This of course did not stop the inflation and between October 1, 1993 and January 24, 1995 prices increased by 5 quadrillion percent. This number is a 5 with 15 zeroes after it.

In November of 1993 the government postponed turning on the heat in the state apartment buildings in which most of the population lived. The residents reacted to this withholding of heat by using electrical space heaters which were inefficient and overloaded the electrical system. The government power company then had to order blackouts to conserve electricity.

The social structure began to collapse. Thieves robbed hospitals and clinics of scarce pharmaceuticals and then sold them in front of the same places they robbed. The railway workers went on strike and closed down Yugoslavia's rail system.

In a large psychiatric hospital 87 patients died in November of 1994. The hospital had no heat, there was no food or medicine and the patients were wandering around naked. The government set the level of pensions. The pensions were to be paid at the post office but the government did not give the post offices enough funds to pay these pensions. The pensioners lined up in long lines outside the post office. When the post office ran out of state funds to pay the pensions the employees would pay the next pensioner in line whatever money they received when someone came in to mail a letter or package. With inflation being what it was the value of the pension would decrease drastically if the pensioners went home and came back the next day. So they waited in line knowing that the value of their pension payment was decreasing with each minute they had to wait in line.

Many Yugoslavian businesses refused to take the Yugoslavian currency at all and the German Deutsche Mark effectively became the currency of Yugoslavia. But government organizations, government employees and pensioners still got paid in Yugoslavian dinars so there was still an active exchange in dinars. On November 12, 1993 the exchange rate was 1 DM = 1 million new dinars. By November 23 the exchange rate was 1 DM = 6.5 million new dinars and at the end of November it was 1 DM = 37 million new dinars. At the beginning of December the bus workers went on strike because their pay for two weeks was equivalent to only 4 DM when it cost a family of four 230 DM per month to live. By December 11th the exchange rate was 1 DM = 800 million and on December 15th it was 1 DM = 3.7 billion new dinars. The average daily rate of inflation was nearly 100 percent. When farmers selling in the free markets refused to sell food for Yugoslavian dinars the government closed down the free markets. On December 29 the exchange rate was 1 DM = 950 billion new dinars.

About this time there occurred a tragic incident. As usual pensioners were waiting in line. Someone passed by their line carrying bags of groceries from the free market. Two pensioners got so upset at their situation and the sight of someone else with groceries that they had heart attacks and died right there.

At the end of December the exchange rate was 1 DM = 3 trillion dinars and on January 4, 1994 it was 1 DM = 6 trillion dinars. On January 6th the government declared that the German Deutsche was an official currency of Yugoslavia. About this time the government announced a new new dinar which was equal to 1 billion of the old new dinars. This meant that the exchange rate was 1 DM = 6,000 new new dinars. By January 11 the exchange rate had reached a level of 1 DM = 80,000 new new dinars. On January 13th the rate was 1 DM = 700,000 new new dinars and six days later it was 1 DM = 10 million new new dinars.

The telephone bills for the government operated phone system were collected by the postmen. People postponed paying these bills as much as possible and inflation reduced their real value to next to nothing. One postman found that after trying to collect on 780 phone bills he got nothing so the next day he stayed home and paid the entire phone bills himself for the equivalent of a few American pennies.

Here is another illustration of the irrationality of the government's policies. James Lyon, a journalist, made twenty hours of international telephone calls from Belgrade in December of 1993. The bill for these calls was 1000 new new dinars and it arrived on January 11th. At the exchange rate for January 11th of 1 DM = 150,000 dinars it would have cost less than one German pfennig to pay the bill. But the bill was not due until January 17th and by that time the exchange rate reached 1 DM = 30 million dinars. Yet the free market value of those twenty hours of international telephone calls was about $5,000. So the government despite being strapped for hard currency gave James Lyon $5,000 worth of phone calls essentially for nothing.

It was against the law to refuse to accept personal checks. Some people wrote personal checks knowing that in the few days it took for the checks to clear inflation would wipe out as much as 90 percent of the cost of covering those checks.

On January 24, 1994 the government introduced the super dinar equal to 10 million of the new new dinars. The Yugoslav government's official position was that the hyperinflation occurred "because of the unjustly implemented sanctions against the Serbian people and state."

Source: James Lyon, "Yugoslavia's Hyperinflation, 1993-1994:

A Social History," East European Politics and Societies vol. 10, no. 2 (Spring 1996), pp. 293-327.

Lesson:         It CAN and probably WILL happen here – don’t wait to be told what to do.