Food Storage Packing 101

Food Storage Packing - Do-it-yourself Facts & Myths

By Denis Korn

Know the facts about do-it-yourself packing!

The purpose of this article is to present specific details and recommendations for packing your own shelf stable foods for food storage, including what works and what doesn’t in creating an oxygen free atmosphere for long term food storage, and the common misconceptions of how to do your own packing will be covered.  While there are many different types of dried foods that can be stored for extended periods of time, most folks are interested in how best to store grain and bean products.
Some material will be repeated in this article that has been covered in previous articles concerning the use of oxygen absorbers, storage conditions, and 30 year shelf life claims.  While I could write a book on every specific detail of every packing option and all the technical specifications of all available packing containers, it is not the purpose of this article.  I will cover important highlights, facts, insights, and information gained from over 37 years in the preparedness and outdoor recreation industry.  It is important to keep in mind that I have not only been a retailer of preparedness and outdoor foods, I have been a manufacturer, developer of hundreds of recipes, packaging and product  innovator, and researcher of shelf stable foods.
Some of the material presented here will contradict and challenge information available on the web or in some do-it-yourself circles.  Many people assume preparedness information to be accurate without careful consideration of the expertise of the source or the validity of the facts.  I encourage you to research on your own any of the information presented in this article – or in any article for that matter – and to use basic critical thinking skills to evaluate the evidence and data you are offered.  A little common sense goes a long way in assessing many of the claims being made about shelf life and do-it-yourself issues.  I talk about the issue of trust and reliability in my articles: Who do you Trust?, The Research and Evaluation Process, and Purchasing Food Reserves – The Essential Questions.

Basics

Before you start packing your foods, be clear about what it is you want to store and for how long.  Are the foods appropriate for your plans?  Do you know how to prepare them?  Do you have an adequate quantity?  Do you have all the equipment necessary to prepare your foods?  What is the nutritional quality?  I suggest you study the key foundational information in my article Beginning and Improving Preparedness Planning.
This is an article dealing with dry food products with a low to very low moisture content – depending upon the item usually between 2 and about 10 %.  Products can include grains, beans, seeds, dehydrated or freeze-dried fruits and vegetables, seasonings, and powders and flours.
Grains and beans can be whole or processed into numerous forms.  Keep in mind that when a whole grain or bean is processed it can compromise the integrity of a natural barrier, expose any oils, and begin a process of oxidation or rancidity leading to a shortened shelf life.  Some processed bean products, such as TVP (Textured Vegetable Protein) have been defatted to insure a longer shelf life, and some grains have naturally lower oil content.  Because of the position of the germ in rice, brown rice is not appropriate for long term storage.  Also, because white flour has no wheat germ, it will last significantly longer than whole wheat flour.  Research the products you are storing to determine both the moisture and oil content.
What are the goals and expectations for your food preparedness planning?  What are you hoping to accomplish and for whom and how many?  How realistic are your plans?  How long do you want your stored foods to be palatable – edible – nutritious – agreeable?  Be honest.  I once again refer you to another very helpful article in assisting you in preparedness planning: The 12 Crucial Questions of Preparedness Planning.
Why oxygen free?
At the end of this article I have included information on the 6 critical conditions for storing food.  In this section we explore the need for an oxygen free atmosphere when storing food for long periods.  Basically there are 2 reasons for wanting to store food in an oxygen free environment – eliminate the possibility for infestation from insects and microorganisms, and control oxidation, which leads to the rancidity of fats and oils, foul taste, off color, and nutritional deterioration.  The lower the oxygen levels – the more effective in preserving the integrity of the foods stored.  Some foods are more susceptible to oxidation deterioration than others.  It is important to know how susceptible the foods you are storing are to oxidation, because as you will see the type of container you store your foods in may at some point no longer be an adequate oxygen barrier.  Research by Mitsubishi Gas Chemical Company, the inventors of oxygen absorbers and manufacturer of the Ageless® brand absorber, indicates that in an oxygen free atmosphere (their absorbers can reduce the residual oxygen level in the proper container to 0.1% or less) all adults, larvae, pupae, and eggs of the most prevalent dry food insects are killed within 14 days.
If oxidation and elimination of all stages in an insect’s development by eliminating available oxygen is not an issue, there are other methods that can be utilized with varying effectiveness in controlling insect infestation.  Options include:

• Exposure to freezing temperatures for an adequate length of time (this may kill adults and larvae but not all eggs)
• Using bay leaves and other aromatic herbs to inhibit insect reproduction
• Using food grade diatomaceous earth to kill adults (the microscopic very sharp texture of the particles pierce the bodies of the insects and they dehydrate and die).  In this case the live adult must come into contact with the diatomaceous earth.  Some folks put the material on the bottom of a container hoping the insects will go there, while others coat all the contents of a container with a fine layer of material and wash it off when it is time to consume the food.

Methods of reducing residual oxygen levels when you pack your own

Utilize an oxygen absorber – properly (see the very informative article Using and About Oxygen Absorbers)
Pro:

• Very effective in reducing residual oxygen levels – in my opinion it is the most effective technology available today.
• Relatively inexpensive and easy to use if done properly.
• Harmless components – iron oxide.
• Easily obtainable.

Con:

• This product was developed for use by professional food companies who understand how to properly use and store it.  There are important guidelines which must be followed for the absorber to work properly and not lose its effectiveness.  The do-it-yourself person will defeat the purpose of using this technology if the guidelines and instructions are not properly followed.  It is imperative that the absorber user obtain all necessary information from a qualified supplier on its correct use. (Using and About Oxygen Absorbers)
• The absorber user needs to do their homework and make sure the correct sized absorber is being utilized for both the size of the container and food product packed.

Insert a wand into a pouch, can, bucket, or jar and attempt to replace the atmosphere by squirting it with nitrogen (the most commonly used inert gas)
Pro:

• Fairly easy to do
• Relatively inexpensive

Con:

• Without the proper testing equipment there is no way for the pack your own person to know the residual oxygen levels of their containers.  If the levels are too high, you have defeated the purpose for which you intended.  How much nitrogen to use and the length of time to insert it into the container are both speculation and assumption.  Do you want to rely on guess work?
• When removing the wand and sealing the container some amount of oxygen will be introduced into the container, which will affect the atmosphere in the container.
• To achieve the desired effect of a very low residual oxygen level this method has many weaknesses.  (NOTE: Before the days of the oxygen absorber, companies such as mine used elaborate equipment designed to draw a vacuum and nitrogen flush in a chamber.  The goal was a residual oxygen level of 2% or lower, because this was the military specification for long term storage of foods in a #10 size metal can.  Even with the proper equipment reaching these residual levels required experience, testing, and effective methodology.  Can “wanding” by hand achieve these levels?)

The dry ice method – There was a time (and there may still be) when folks would put dry ice at the bottom or top of a container, leave the lid slightly ajar, wait for the ice to evaporate, and then seal the lid.  This method has so many problems that I won’t bother to give it pros and cons.  It is not recommended.
Use a home model vacuum sealer with either a plastic pouch or available attachment to put over a jar
Pro:

• Equipment is easily accessible
• Can be effective for short term storage
• Easy to use

Con:

• Equipment and extra pouches can be costly
• The vacuum pulled (measured in inches of mercury) may be helpful for short term use, however is neither strong enough nor effective for a long term storage requirement.  The plastic pouches and jar seams are not designed to hold a vacuum for extended periods (longer than 1-2 years).

Go to a cannery –  You can do your own canning of your own product in #10 metal cans.  Some canneries will sell you cans and bulk foods.
Pro:

• Very effective method for long term food storage – metal cans are the best containers
• Depending on the cannery, costs can be low for using the equipment
• You can easily insert an oxygen absorber into the cans for maximum shelf life

Con:

• While metal cans are the most effective containers, they can be costly and very difficult to obtain in smaller quantities
• Canneries are not readily available to most folks – most are sponsored by members of the Mormon Church, check on usage and membership requirements, hours of operation, and costs at each cannery
• You’ll need the proper vehicle to transport bulk foods and cans

Use a manually operated or electric, smaller, model open top can seam sealer
Pro:

• Very effective method for long term food storage – metal cans are the best containers
• You have significant flexibility as to when to use the sealer, and with whom it is to be shared
• You can easily insert an oxygen absorber into the cans for maximum shelf life
• They are easy to use once you get the hang of it

Con:

• They can be expensive
• You must do your homework and determine the best manufacturer and model
• You must make sure you are operating them correctly and that the seams are being sealed properly
• You need access to a supply of cans

Containers

Of all the issues relating to packing your own shelf stable foods, the most effective container to use can be the most confusing and misrepresented.  As stated in the beginning of this article be clear about what you are storing, how much, and for how long.
Plastic buckets (HDPE – high density polyethylene) – 5 and 6 gallon round and square sizes with handles are very popular for packing grains, beans, and other commodities in bulk
Pro:

• A convenient container to store larger quantities of dry foods – stores and stacks well, is compact, and can be carried easily.
• Inexpensive new and can be obtained used from a number of sources.
• A thick walled (90 mil) container with the proper gasket can be used effectively to control the atmosphere within for up to 1 to 3 years.
• Can be used in conjunction with foil pouches for convenience of storage.
• You can use multiple foil pouches stored in the bucket for convenience of use.
• Insects don’t easily penetrate the thick walls.
• Can withstand some rough handling.
• Because insects at all stages are destroyed within about 14 days, the short term effectiveness of using an oxygen absorber to create an oxygen free environment is useful.

Con:

• HDPE is a permeable (porous – albeit microscopic) material and gas transmission rates (the length of time gases such as oxygen will travel through a given material) indicate that it will take 1 to 3 years for the atmosphere within the bucket to match the atmosphere outside (our normal atmosphere is normally about 21% oxygen and 79% nitrogen with a very small amount of other gases such as carbon dioxide).  This means that if you started with an oxygen free or low level to begin with, that over time the oxygen level in the bucket will continue to increase until it reaches parity or equality with the normal atmosphere.
• If you want the atmosphere to remain constant inside your container, or be oxygen free for extended periods of time, HDPE plastic buckets are not appropriate – check with the manufacturers (as I have done) and find out their specifications and recommendations for your needs and the specific container you want to use.
• The ability to maintain whatever atmosphere you desire within the container will depend not only on the quality of the HDPE walls, but also the integrity of the gasket seal.
• HDPE will absorb odors and they will eventually permeate into the contents of the bucket.  Direct packed foods will also absorb the odor.  Do not store plastic buckets in areas that have a strong smell. (NOTE: Foil pouches within a bucket will prolong the odor absorption)
• Rodents and other animals can easily break into plastic buckets.
• Not recommended for long term storage (3+ years) of directly packed foods.

Pouches – There are literally thousands of possible combinations of materials and sizes available to create a pouch that will contain food.  Normally a food manufacturer or packer goes to a company that specializes in manufacturing pouches and gives the company their specifications and requirements for the specific foods to be packed.
IMPORTANT NOTE:  It is common these days among those who sell empty pouches for food storage, or food already in pouches, to use the term “Mylar pouch.”  This is very misleading.  By itself the term can mean anything and it tells you nothing of importance so that you can make the appropriate decisions on what pouch to use.  The “Mylar” brand is the registered trademark name of a PET polyester film manufactured by DuPont Teijin Films.  They produce hundreds of variations of this polyester resin material.  It is a component used in the production of many variations of packaging material.  It can be clear or opaque such as in wrappers for food bars or Mylar balloons – that look “metalized” yet contain no foil.  Mylar by itself is not an appropriate material for long term pouched food.  Ask you supplier what they mean when they say “Mylar.”
For those reading this article the requirements needed are to pack dry foods for the long term.  If you buy stock pouches from a distributor you need to tell them what you plan to put in it and what your expectations are for the long term.  You should insist on knowing the specifications (especially the gas and vapor transmission rates) of the pouch and whether they suit your needs.
If you want a pouch that gives you the longest possible shelf life for your foods, you will need a laminated pouch consisting of multiple components and layers.  As far as pouches are concerned, one of those layers must be foil (NOTE: All plastics are gas and vapor permeable – some rates are very high – meaning that gases transmit through them very quickly – and some plastics both individually and in combination have slower rates).  Only quality foil is a non-permeable gas and moisture barrier – that is foil without microscopic holes)
Ask the distributor the specifications of the pouch, the different components used – not only for barrier properties but also for durability, the transmission rates if not foil, if foil – its thickness, and the reliability and reputation of the manufacturer.
Pro:

• The variety of available sizes offers flexibility in choices of quantities to store.
• Costs are reasonable.
• Can be effective as a short term oxygen free container.
• Small pouches of food can be very useful for bartering and distributing among those in need during in an emergency.

Con:

• Not recommended for very long term packaging of products for an oxygen free environment.  Shelf life of pouched foods is recommended for 3 to 10 years depending on type of food product, storage conditions, handling, and composition packaging materials.
• Excessive or rough handling, loss of seal integrity, and pressure of sharp edges on the pouch from the products within can create “pin holes” (microscopic holes in the pouch material) that eventually will cause gases to be transmitted through the pouch (NOTE: I am concerned when I see and hear some folks instructing people to cram and squeeze foil pouches into plastic buckets).
• Rodents and other creatures can easily penetrate pouch material.

Metal cans – For food storage purposes #10 size (about 7/8 gal) and #2 ½ size (about 7/8 qt) are the most popular used with the proper can sealers.  It is possible, if you keep searching, to find 5 gallon square metal cans with a large pressure lid on the top side.  These are ideal for bulk food storage, although they may be hard to find (NOTE: I sold these cans packed with foods at AlpineAire Foods about 20 years ago).  You also may want to consider clean or new metal garbage cans as a means to store smaller size foil pouched foods.
Pro:

• Ideal for long term food storage.  The atmosphere within the cans, with the proper sealing, can remain oxygen free indefinitely.
• Metal is non-permeable for gas and vapor – a zero transmission rate.
• Difficult for rodents or animals to penetrate.
• Can withstand some rough handling.

Con:

• Costs can be higher than other materials.
• Extra attention must be given to proper sealing.
• Some metal containers may be difficult to obtain.
• Some cans may rust if exposed to moisture.

Glass
Pro:

• Excellent for long term food storage.  The atmosphere within the jars, with the proper sealing, can remain oxygen free indefinitely.
• Glass is non-permeable for gas and vapor – a zero transmission rate.
• Difficult for rodents or animals to penetrate.
• Easily obtainable and relatively inexpensive.

Con:

• Very fragile – must be stored and handled with care.
• Practical only in smaller size containers.

Personal recommendations and tips for long term pack your own food storage

First choice – if possible store foods in metal cans with the proper size oxygen absorber
Second choice –

• Pack foods in a heavy duty foil laminate pouch with the proper size oxygen absorber.  I prefer using a variety of smaller size pouches rather than one large pouch.
• If you seal the pouch with an iron – as opposed to a commercial impulse sealer – make sure you know the proper method to use.  If your seal isn’t adequate you are wasting your time and money using an absorber.
• Place the foil pouches carefully – to avoid “pin holes” and seam damage, into another larger plastic or metal container (NOTE: Sturdy cardboard boxes will do if infestation from insects, rodents, and other animals is of no concern).  This will facilitate handing and storage.
• When you use the proper size oxygen absorber in a foil pouch it will create a slight vacuum and the pouch will tighten up somewhat (Remember you are not creating a complete vacuum that would produce a brick hard pack, you are only removing about 21% of the air volume – it will be absorbed by the iron oxide in the oxygen absorber sachet).
• Periodically – especially in the first two weeks – check on the pouch to make sure it still looks tightened up.  If at some point it looks normal, then the integrity of the pouch has been compromised and the atmosphere in the pouch has equalized with the outside atmosphere.

I see no point in putting additional oxygen absorbers into the plastic bucket or container in which the foil pouch is placed.
Third Choice

• If you have a smaller quantity of dry goods to store and you can protect or store foods safely – use glass jars.  Either half gallon size Ball canning jars or one gallon size jars – both need lids with a small rubber seal on the lid to create an air tight container.
• Drop an appropriate size oxygen absorber in the jar then seal it tight.
• Store away from light.

Tips

• I do not recommend using the nitrogen “wand” method of atmosphere replacement in pouches, plastic, or metal containers if you want to create a truly oxygen free environment.
• The oxygen absorber properly used is the best method for creating an oxygen free environment.
• Certain foods packed for long term storage may not need an oxygen free atmosphere.  I have covered the reasons for creating this type of environment earlier, and your specific needs may focus only on containers and storage conditions.
• I do not recommend storing commodities in their original paper or cloth sacks or boxes for the long term – unless you possess a very secure and unique storage facility.  The important issue here is infestation and environmental influences such as heat, moisture, and other airborne contaminants.
• Periodically inspect your food reserves for any sign of infestation or contamination.
• Read my article on Using and About Oxygen Absorbers.

Storage Conditions

There are six conditions to be aware of when storing food for emergency preparedness food storage, or outdoor recreation.  The foods being referred to in this post are shelf-stable freeze-dried, dehydrated, dried commodities.  Optimal storage conditions can also be applied to wet pack:  retort, MRE’s, canned goods, and other specialty longer term wet pack foods.
NOTE:  The six conditions listed are chosen because these are factors in which we have the control to optimize for the longest reliable shelf life.  TIME is the one factor that we can not control – and it does have a significant effect on the shelf life of various foods.  Nutritional value is lost with many foods over time.  To know with certainty the viable nutritional value of all food reserve items at any given time after a lengthy period of storage – is at best complex or most likely mere conjecture and guesswork.  What we can do is to apply proper planning procedures – do your research with trusted resources, rotate and consume your storage foods, and be realistic about how long you will really need the foods you choose to store.

• Temperature- This is the primary factor affecting the storage life of foods.  The cooler the better. 40 degrees-50 degrees would be great. Room temperature (65 degrees-72 degrees) or below is generally fine.  Avoid above 90 degrees for extended periods of time. The longer food is exposed to very high temperatures the shorter the edible life and the faster the degeneration of nutritional value.  Note:  There are some “foods” available for emergency preparedness that are known as “emergency food or ration bars.”  These products are generally referred to as “life raft bars” because they were originally designed for life rafts and can withstand high heat for extended periods of time.  They primarily consist of white sugar and white flour, and were not meant to be the sole source of nutrition for a long period of time.
• Moisture- The lower the better.  Moisture can deteriorate food value rapidly and create conditions that promote the growth of harmful organisms.  The moisture level contained in foods varies depending on the type of product it is.  Have foods in moisture barrier containers (metal, glass) in high humidity areas. Note:  Mylar bags or plastic buckets are not a long term (over 3 years) moisture or oxygen barrier. The moisture and gas transmission rates through these materials vary depending upon the specifications of the manufacturers.  Plastic absorbs gases, moisture, and odors.  Note:  Be careful where you store dry foods in cans.  Very cold flooring or any condition where there is a dramatic temperature differential may cause a build up of condensation inside the container.
• Oxygen – A high oxygen environment causes oxidation, which leads to discoloration, flavor loss, odors, rancidity and the breakdown of nutritional value in foods. It also allows insects to feed on dried food reserves. Without oxygen, insects cannot live, nor can aerobic (oxygen dependent) organisms. Whole grain and beans have natural oxygen barriers and can store for long periods of time in low humidity and if free from infestation. All other processed grains, vegetables, fruits, etc. must be in a very reduced (2% or less) oxygen environment for long term storage.  Note:  Mylar bags or plastic buckets are not a long term (over 3 years) moisture or oxygen barrier. The moisture and gas transmission rates through these materials vary depending upon the specifications of the manufacturers.  Plastic absorbs gases, moisture, and odors.  The best long term storage containers are glass and metal.
• Infestation – Examples include rodents, insects in all their stages of growth, mold, microorganisms, and any other creatures that get hungry – large or small.  The proper packaging and storage conditions are required to control infestation and not allow critters to both get into the food, or have the necessary environment for them to flourish if they are sealed into a container – such as in the form of eggs or spores.
• Handling – Rough handling can not only damage the food itself, but it can also adversely effect and compromise the integrity of the container in which the food is stored.  Glass of course can break; any pouched item can develop pin holes, tears, or cracks.  The seams on buckets and cans can be tweaked, twisted, or damaged to allow oxygen to enter the container.
• Light – Food should not be stored in direct sunlight.  Both for the potential of high temperature, and its affect on food value.  Sunlight directly on stored foods can destroy nutritional value and hasten the degeneration of food quality, taste, and appearance.  Foods packed in light barrier containers do not pose a problem with the affects of light.

Make Your Own Oxygen Absorber for Food Storage

Most commercial oxygen absorbers are nothing more than fine iron powder mixed with a polymer grain to allow air circulation through the powder – the rusting of the iron powder depletes the container’s contents of oxygen.  It’s that simple.  It’s also very easy to replicate that process.

Materials:

• Steel Wool ‘0000′ superfine (don’t use “SOS” pads)
• Salt (table salt is fine)
• Paper towels
• Stapler

Depending on the container size, take a wad of steel wool and lay it on a open paper towel.  Sprinkle table salt over the steel wool and work it into the fibers.  Then fold the towel over and staple it into an envelope shape. Done....

The salt’s acidity activates corrosion of the fine steel wool and the rusting of the steel absorbs oxygen in the container. Just leave a wad of steel wool outside overnight to see this process in fast forward … you don’t even need the salt for that experiment.

Keep all your unused DIY Oxygen Absorbers in air-tight freezer bags until you need them.

A Basic Starter SHTF or Disaster Preparedness Plan

Getting Started

Preparedness can definitely be overwhelming, especially for people starting out, or people without a large budget. There are so many things to do that it might be tempting to quit before you start! or get so discouraged you can get depressed. 

This post offers a systematic, step-by-step plan for getting started. Here is a month-by-month calendar of tasks to complete so you'll be on top of emergency preparedness, financial preparedness, and basic food storage. After you've gone through the calendar once, start over again at the beginning, maintaining and improving upon what you've already accomplished. 

Months	Emergency Preparedness	Financial Preparedness	Food Storage (Very Basic 1-yr Plan)
Jan	Take first-aid & CPR training. Post emergency #s by phones.	Make a will/trust. If you have one, review & update it if necessary.	Store 7-10 gallons of water per person.
Feb	Update first aid kit and have extra medicines purchased.	Commit to save a set amount each month. Set up an automatic transfer from your checking to a savings vehicle.	Store 200 lbs of wheat and/or flour or whole grains per adult (approx cost $30-40 each). Also store 10 lbs of salt per person (approx cost $2 each).
Mar	Obtain flashlights, batteries, transistor radio (or check existing).	If you are carrying unnecessary debt, create a debt-elimination calendar and begin paying off the debt (see "One for the Money," p. 5).	Store 10 lbs of powdered milk per adult (approx cost $10 each).
Apr	Create a family plan in case of disaster (where to gather, where 72-hr kits are, emergency phone #s, etc.).	Set up a basic household budget, using any method that fits your needs. Begin tracking family expenses in a way that's useful to you.	Store 25-30 lbs of sugar/honey per adult (approx cost $7-12 each).
May	Begin researching a firearm purchase. You can find lots of great information on THIS BLOG. You may want to start with a shotgun - as they are cheap and offer immediate protection without much training. Also collect kerosene lamp, fuel, & matches.	Review your insurance needs (home, life, health, auto etc.) Ensure you have adequate insurance.	Store 30 lbs of dried beans/legumes per adult (approx cost $15 each). Or store canned beans if you wish.
June	Create a Go-Bag - including first aid supplies, food, water, coins/cash, flashlight, sleeping bag, water/water filter, gun/knife	Dedicate an evening to teach your kids about using money wisely. Make sure children & spouses know where important financial papers (especially wills) are located.	Store 10 lbs of fat/oil per adult (cost varies).
Jul	Anticipate what kids might need to cope with disaster. Add to 72-hr kit.	Create a filing system for your important financial papers.	Store 7-10 gallons of water per person.
Aug	Gather important personal items (birth certificates, photos, videos) and place in safe deposit box or other secure location away from home.	Copy all important financial papers and place copies in a safe deposit box or other secure location away from your home. You may wish to place certain important documents in 72-hr kits.	Store 200 lbs of whole grains/flour per adult (cost varies).
Sep	Gather clothing, bedding, first aid kit, flashlights, batteries, radio, food & water in 72-hr kit you can grab & run.	If you don't already have one (shame on you). Research and purchase a tactical rifle - this is an AR15, AK47, AK74 or other variant.	Store 10 lbs of powdered milk per adult (approx cost $10 each).
Oct	Educate yourself by reading a book or article on disaster preparedness.	Create a net worth statement by listing all assets & liabilities.	Store 25 lbs of sugar/honey per adult (approx cost $7-12 each).
Nov	Learn/review how to turn off electricity, water, & gas. Put crowbar, wrench, & shovel in 72-hr kit.	Walk through your house with a camcorder or camera to create a visual record of important assets.	Store 30 lbs of dried beans/legumes per adult (approx cost $15 each). Or store canned beans if you wish.
Dec	Research and purchase (if possible) a Handgun for each adult in your family. Again good research material can be found on this blog site.	Prepare yourself and make plans to purchase a bare minimum of 2,000 rds of ammunition for each rifle, 1,000 rds of ammunition for each handgun, and 400-600 shotshells.	Store 10 lbs of fat/oil per adult (cost varies).

An introduction to strategic Prepping - Installment 1

Chapter 1:    INTRODUCTION

To be Independent – Learn to think and live independently

REDUCE YOUR DEBT: Reducing ones debt to as close to zero as possible is essential. That may involve selling off some of your real estate investment, moving to a smaller home, refinancing your home mortgage to a 15-year loan, and eliminating your credit cards. Stop paying interest. Do not be dependent on the government for your well-being. Try to be as independent and self reliant as possible for your income.

Finance:
Take control of your finances. Read many alternate sources of information. Do your homework. Be driven to understand what is going on and more importantly what it means to you. Avoid states of denial. Become as independent as possible. Make yourself save as much as you can. Most people live above their means. Learn to live below your means. If you save a minimum of 10% per month, you can grow your wealth very safely. Some can save 20%-25%.

Diversify your investments; include investments in Swiss money instruments, gold, different currencies.  Owning tangible assets such as junk silver coins is an ideal way to preserve wealth in an economic collapse.
Avoid weak financial institutions. Get out of harm's way. Many banks, brokerage house, S& Ls and insurance companies are tottering on the brink of disaster or close to it in the event of a market downturn. And in spite of the perception to the contrary, there is no substantive insurance safety net under these institutions.

Avoid popular investment markets. There are few goof-proof opportunities for conservative investors. Stocks are overvalued. If you own stocks have stops in place. Corporate bonds are vulnerable and will drop as U.S. interest rates rise. Be very selective in investment real estate. Commodities are out of favor and at bargain prices. All things are cyclical and go from being under valued to over valued.

Find investment safe havens. The three best and most conservative investments to put your money into over the next few years are gold and silver, foreign government bond funds, and U.S Treasury bill money market funds. Don't announce to the world what you are doing; keep a low profile. Legally “bulletproof” your business and personal matters. America is the most litigious country in the world, with 700,000 lawyers and 187 million new civil lawsuits per year. Every doctor, professional businessperson or business owner has a nightmare about being sued into ruin. Incorporate your belongings with an LLC or a trust – in this way you own nothing, but control everything. Therefore you cannot lose it to a lawsuit.

Pay Attention

Check your mindset about the news, about investments and about your financial security – is your information reliable – does it stand up to independent research. To survive the coming hard times, you must vigilantly control the way you do things, the way you think, and the way you invest. You must read between the lines in today's news reports ... find alternative investments and financial institutions ...and plan for the future.

Food and Water

Purchase and maintain a one-year food supply (to start) – then  have a large water source, such as 55 gallon water barrels. Own tangible assets or commodities that can be bartered or traded.

Live Independently
Finally, buy remote acreage with cash – eliminate debt – all debt……and ultimately buy or build an off-the grid, sustainable home in a small town or rural community that can serve as a home and your family retreat or place of refuge.

It is dangerous to be right, when the government is wrong

Voltaire

Chapter 2:    BACKGROUND:      

Case Study:         The Worst Episode of Hyperinflation in History – Yugoslavia 1993-1994 – or Why you should not believe everything you are told.

Under Tito Yugoslavia ran a budget deficit that was financed by printing money. This led to rates of inflation of 15 to 25 percent per year. After Tito the Communist Party pursued progressively more irrational economic policies. These irrational policies and the breakup of Yugoslavia (Yugoslavia now consists of only Serbia and Montenegro) led to heavier reliance upon printing or otherwise creating money to finance the operation of the government and the socialist economy. This created the worst hyperinflation in history up to this time.

By the early 1990s the government used up all of its own hard currency reserves and proceeded to loot the hard currency savings of private citizens. It did this by imposing more and more difficult restrictions on private citizens access to their hard currency savings in government banks.

The government operated a network of stores at which goods were supposed to be available at artificially low prices. In practice these store seldom had anything to sell and goods were only available at free markets where the prices were far above the official prices that goods were supposed to sell at in government stores. In particular, all of the government gasoline stations eventually were closed and gasoline was available only from roadside dealers whose operation consisted of a parked car with a plastic can of gasoline sitting on the hood. The market price was the equivalent of $8 per gallon.

The combination of the shortage of gasoline and the government confiscation of German Deutsche mark deposits created a bazaar episode. A man after repeated attempts to get the government to let him withdraw his Deutsche mark deposits as Deutsche marks announced the was going to commit suicide in front of a government building by dousing himself with gasoline and igniting it. On the appointed day he showed up with a canister of gasoline. The media was there to film his protest. The police were also there and arrested the man. Afterwards the television station got numerous phone calls asking what had happened to the canister of gasoline.

Most car owners gave up driving and tried to rely upon public transportation. But the Belgrade transit authority (GSP) did not have the funds necessary for keeping its fleet of 1200 buses operating. Instead it ran fewer than 500 buses. These buses were overcrowded and the ticket collectors could not get aboard to collect fares. Thus GSP could not collect fares even though it was desperately short of funds.

Delivery trucks, ambulances, fire trucks and garbage trucks were also short of fuel. The government announced that gasoline would not be sold to farmers for fall harvests and planting.

Despite the government desperate printing of money it still did not have the funds to keep the infrastructure in operation. Pot holes developed in the streets, elevators stopped functioning, and construction projects were closed down. The unemployment rate exceeded 30 percent.

The government tried to counter the inflation by imposing price controls. But when inflation continued the government price controls made the price producers were getting ridiculous low they stopped producing. In October of 1993 the bakers stopped making bread and Belgrade was without bread for a week. The slaughter houses refused to sell meat to the state stores and this meant meat became unvailable for many sectors of the population. Other stores closed down for inventory rather than sell their goods at the government mandated prices. When farmers refused to sell to the government at the artificially low prices the government dictated, government irrationally used hard currency to buy food from foreign sources rather than remove the price controls. The Ministry of Agriculture also risked creating a famine by selling farmers only 30 percent of the fuel they needed for planting and harvesting.

Later the government tried to curb inflation by requiring stores to file paper work every time they raised a price. This meant that many of the stores employees had to devote their time to filling out these government forms. Instead of curbing inflation this policy actually increased inflation because the stores tended increase prices by a bigger jump so that they would not have file forms for another price increase so soon.

In October of 1993 the created a new currency unit. One new dinar was worth one million of the old dinars. In effect, the government simply removed six zeroes from the paper money. This of course did not stop the inflation and between October 1, 1993 and January 24, 1995 prices increased by 5 quadrillion percent. This number is a 5 with 15 zeroes after it.

In November of 1993 the government postponed turning on the heat in the state apartment buildings in which most of the population lived. The residents reacted to this withholding of heat by using electrical space heaters which were inefficient and overloaded the electrical system. The government power company then had to order blackouts to conserve electricity.

The social structure began to collapse. Thieves robbed hospitals and clinics of scarce pharmaceuticals and then sold them in front of the same places they robbed. The railway workers went on strike and closed down Yugoslavia's rail system.

In a large psychiatric hospital 87 patients died in November of 1994. The hospital had no heat, there was no food or medicine and the patients were wandering around naked. The government set the level of pensions. The pensions were to be paid at the post office but the government did not give the post offices enough funds to pay these pensions. The pensioners lined up in long lines outside the post office. When the post office ran out of state funds to pay the pensions the employees would pay the next pensioner in line whatever money they received when someone came in to mail a letter or package. With inflation being what it was the value of the pension would decrease drastically if the pensioners went home and came back the next day. So they waited in line knowing that the value of their pension payment was decreasing with each minute they had to wait in line.

Many Yugoslavian businesses refused to take the Yugoslavian currency at all and the German Deutsche Mark effectively became the currency of Yugoslavia. But government organizations, government employees and pensioners still got paid in Yugoslavian dinars so there was still an active exchange in dinars. On November 12, 1993 the exchange rate was 1 DM = 1 million new dinars. By November 23 the exchange rate was 1 DM = 6.5 million new dinars and at the end of November it was 1 DM = 37 million new dinars. At the beginning of December the bus workers went on strike because their pay for two weeks was equivalent to only 4 DM when it cost a family of four 230 DM per month to live. By December 11th the exchange rate was 1 DM = 800 million and on December 15th it was 1 DM = 3.7 billion new dinars. The average daily rate of inflation was nearly 100 percent. When farmers selling in the free markets refused to sell food for Yugoslavian dinars the government closed down the free markets. On December 29 the exchange rate was 1 DM = 950 billion new dinars.

About this time there occurred a tragic incident. As usual pensioners were waiting in line. Someone passed by their line carrying bags of groceries from the free market. Two pensioners got so upset at their situation and the sight of someone else with groceries that they had heart attacks and died right there.

At the end of December the exchange rate was 1 DM = 3 trillion dinars and on January 4, 1994 it was 1 DM = 6 trillion dinars. On January 6th the government declared that the German Deutsche was an official currency of Yugoslavia. About this time the government announced a new new dinar which was equal to 1 billion of the old new dinars. This meant that the exchange rate was 1 DM = 6,000 new new dinars. By January 11 the exchange rate had reached a level of 1 DM = 80,000 new new dinars. On January 13th the rate was 1 DM = 700,000 new new dinars and six days later it was 1 DM = 10 million new new dinars.

The telephone bills for the government operated phone system were collected by the postmen. People postponed paying these bills as much as possible and inflation reduced their real value to next to nothing. One postman found that after trying to collect on 780 phone bills he got nothing so the next day he stayed home and paid the entire phone bills himself for the equivalent of a few American pennies.

Here is another illustration of the irrationality of the government's policies. James Lyon, a journalist, made twenty hours of international telephone calls from Belgrade in December of 1993. The bill for these calls was 1000 new new dinars and it arrived on January 11th. At the exchange rate for January 11th of 1 DM = 150,000 dinars it would have cost less than one German pfennig to pay the bill. But the bill was not due until January 17th and by that time the exchange rate reached 1 DM = 30 million dinars. Yet the free market value of those twenty hours of international telephone calls was about $5,000. So the government despite being strapped for hard currency gave James Lyon $5,000 worth of phone calls essentially for nothing.

It was against the law to refuse to accept personal checks. Some people wrote personal checks knowing that in the few days it took for the checks to clear inflation would wipe out as much as 90 percent of the cost of covering those checks.

On January 24, 1994 the government introduced the super dinar equal to 10 million of the new new dinars. The Yugoslav government's official position was that the hyperinflation occurred "because of the unjustly implemented sanctions against the Serbian people and state."

Source: James Lyon, "Yugoslavia's Hyperinflation, 1993-1994:

A Social History," East European Politics and Societies vol. 10, no. 2 (Spring 1996), pp. 293-327.

Lesson:         It CAN and probably WILL happen here – don’t wait to be told what to do.

Soap Making and Soap Recipes

Soap Making And Soap Recipe

 

Some of the chemicals used in soap making can be harmful. People experimenting with the methods and information given in these materials, or trying soaps made from the information given in these materials, do so at their own risk. There are no implied or other under-takings given in these materials. References to 'medicated', or the nature of any soap's effect on human beings is entirely conditional upon each individual's allergies and other health considerations. Poorly made soap can 'burn' your skin. The production of safe soap takes time and patience, and comes with the resulting experience. 

MATERIALS & EQUIPMENT FOR SOAP MAKING

There are only five main things needed to make soap. They are:

1) White (wood) ash,

2) Rain or Spring Water

3) Animal fats (grease)

4) Plant oils,

5) Salt. 

In getting the fat ready, sometimes lemon juice or vinegar, potatoes or rice are needed. 

You will need some of the following objects: 

Plastic buckets or big fired clay jars or pots, and large cast iron or stainless steel boiling pots can be used.

MAKING "LYE WATER"

Soap making uses a `caustic solution' known as "Lye Water".

When available, Caustic Soda is used. Here we will make Lye Water out of certain wood ashes and "soft water". 

1) White Ashes

Dried palm branches, dried out banana peels, cocoa pods, kapok tree wood, oak wood, (or for really white soap, apple tree wood) make the best lye ashes. Ordinary wood used in cooking fires will do.

Whatever wood is used, it should be burned in a very hot fire to make very white ashes.

When cold, these are stored in a covered plastic bucket or wooden barrel, or stainless steel container. If these are not available, a clay pot-jar which has been fired in a pottery making kiln (not just dried in the sun).

A wooden drum or barrel which has a tap at the right is best. 

2) Soft Water

Water from a spring or from showers of rain is called "soft water", because it does not have metallic or acidic chemicals in it. This makes it useful for soap making, as there are no other chemicals in it which would get in the way of making soap.

`Ordinary' bore, well, or river water can be used for making soap, but this will sometimes need to have a "washing soda" or "baking soda" in added to it. Otherwise some of the chemicals in the water will get in the way of making the soap.

If you are using `ordinary' water and you want to test it to see if some soda needs to be added, simply try to make soap bubble up (foam) in it. If the soap easily foams up, the water is probably ok as it is. 

If not, try adding a little bit of soda at a time stirring it to make it disappear, until the water will foam the soap up.

Then add the same amount of soda to the same amounts of the water that you wish to use to make the soap. For example, if you were testing a 1/4 (a quarter) of a bucket of water, and you ended up needing 1/8 (an eighth) of a cup of soda, then you would need 4/8 (or 1/2-half) a cup of soda for a full bucket of 'ordinary' water.

However you have got it, store the "soft water" in covered wooden, plastic, or stainless steel buckets or containers. (Again, a clay-jar as described above can be used if needed.) 

"SAFE" CONTAINERS

Any of the types of containers, buckets, barrels or jars described in the White Ashes or Soft Water sections are called "safe containers". 

MAKING "LYE WATER" 

If you are going to use a large barrel or drum to make the lye water in, and it has a tap or hole at the right, place some kind of filter on the inside of the barrel around the opening (as shown in the diagrams).

Fill the barrel with white ashes to about four inches (10 cm or O.1 meter) below the top.

Boil half (1/2) a bucket full of soft water (about 10 pints or six litre), and pour over the ashes.

Slowly add more cold soft water until liquid drips out of the barrel. Close the tap or block the hole.

Add more ashes to top the barrel up again, and more soft water. Do not add so much water that the ashes swim.

Leave to stand for four or more hours (or over night if you have the time). Later pour the brownish lye water into a plastic or other "safe" container(s). Then pour back through the ashes again. Let the lye water drip into "safe" containers.

When the brown lye water stops coming out of the barrel, or ash container, then pour four to five pints (2½ to three litre) of soft water through the ashes, collecting the lye which comes out in a separate "safe" container (as this lye may be weaker than the first lot). 

Repeat this using two to three pints (one to two litre) of soft water, until no more brown liquid comes out of the ashes.

Either put the lye into "safe" bottles, or cover the "safe" containers which it is in. Dig the ashes into the vegetable garden.

KEEP LYE WATER AWAY FROM CHILDREN.

LYE WATER IS DANGEROUS!

LYE WATER STRENGTH.

If an egg or potato will float just below half way, or a chicken feather starts to dissolve in it, then the lye water is at the right strength. If the egg will not float, then the lye water could be boiled down if you wanted it to be stronger.

If the egg seems to pop up too far, add a little bit of soft water (a cup at a time) stirring the lye water, until the egg floats so that its head pops up. 

3) Animal Fat (grease)

The fat of most animals can be used in the making of soap.

Grease made from beef fat, makes the best soap. Beef fat is taken from a cow, calf, steer, or bull cow, or bullock.

Once the meat of the animal has been cut away, the fat is chopped into bits and placed in a cast iron frying pan or a (not too deep) wide pot. 

Melted slowly over a low heat, each pound (450 gm or 0.450 kg) produces about one cup of useful grease.

Pour the melted grease through straining cloths (cheese-cloth). 

The grease must now be "washed". Add an equal amount of water, and bring to the boil, take off the heat, and add one quarter (1/4) as much cold water. Leave the water and grease to cool. When the fat has hardened, scrape the dirty stuff off the right. If the fat still looks dirty, "wash" it until clean. On the last washing use twice as much water, and before boiling add one table spoon of salt (80 ml salt crystals). If fat which has been used for cooking is to be used for soap making, then you may need to get rid of smells. For each cup of smelly fat, add two table spoons of vinegar or lemon juice in half a cup of water and boil.Any fat which smells "off" should be treated in this way. Another method for treating smelly fat, when lemon juice or vinegar is not available, is to use sour milk. Melt the fat, and to each cup of fat add one cup of sour milk, and cook. When cooked, add cold water as before and let cool. Cooking potatoes or rice in fat can also help one medium sized potato for each three cups of melted fat. Strain off fat when cooked and pour in cold water as before. All these ways will help to purify fat if it is rancid or smelly. If the fat that you wish to use is discolored. Potassium permanganate (if you can get some) will help to "clean" it. Dissolve a few crystals in two cups of soft water added to two cups of discolored melted fat. The cleaned fat will harden as it cools and be able to be taken off the top of the liquid. [Potassium permanganate is purple in color and is sometimes called Kondies Crystals. It should not cost much at all.] Washed fat, can be stored in a cool airy place for a few weeks before being made into soaps

5) Salt

"Common" salt is used in making soap.

Any salt made out of sea water (or from some stagnant lakes) which can be eaten with food, should be ok.

PROVING (Information 1)

Getting the right mixture of grease and lye is perhaps the most important step of soap making. If too much lye is left in the soap, the soap will be able to "burn" the skin. Also, the soap may not "set" properly. Too much grease causes its own problems as well. Three different main ways of "proving" the soap are explained later on. Three, because some people will find one way better, while others will find another one works better for them. In "proving" the soap, either one or more of the different ways can be used. Only one has to be used not all of the different ways have to be used. When making soap for the first few times however, you may like to try them all out. 

Mixing Greases

If you are wanting to mix beef tallow grease with another fat grease, like mutton (sheep) or lard (pig), it is better to only replace one fifth (1/5th) of the beef tallow grease, with the other grease.For example, if you were going to use four pints of melted beef tallow grease, you could use one pint of another kind of grease mixed in. This would probably be useful as a clothes washing soap. 

DONENESS - (Information 2)

After having "proved" the soap mixture, an eye is kept on when the heating has got rid of the water that is not needed.

During "boiling down", the mixture rises up the sides of the pot with many small bubbles (called foaming or frothing).

This is the stage when water is going out of the mixture while the heat is kept going. When the foaming starts to slow down, the froth will go towards the right of the pot.Large white round bubbles will appear. If you are only making "soft" liquid soap, now would be the time to store it. 

GRAINING AND REWORKING - (Information 3)

When aiming to make a "hard" soap, salt is added at this point. Any sort of eating salt like ones made from sea water should do. Salting the soap mixture makes the soap rise to the top, often looking quite "grainy"- like sand. So this step is sometimes called "graining". This step makes a good solid soap for washing clothes. But it also removes some of the things which make soap nice and safer for people to use on themselves. Soaps which are good for people to use are called "toilet" soaps. However, clothes soaps can be used by people -if properly "proved". To make a "grained" soap more useful for humans, it is "reworked". This involves remelting the "green" soap, and adding some more grease and or oils and lye.

The same "proving" and checking for "doneness", steps are followed as for simple soap making, without "graining" adding salt.

POURING &"SETTING" (Information 4)

Before starting to make soap you will need to have made some shaped-moulds for the melted soap to "set" and harden in.

You can either have one large block, or many small moulds. A plastic bucket, wet wooden troughs, or small greased wooden moulds can be used. 

SPLITTING (Information 5)

When hardened, the soap is "broken out" of the moulds, and if necessary "split" down to useful sizes with a wire or fine cord. (.) Either wear rubber gloves, or put lots of grease on your hands while handling the "green" soap.

DRYING (Information 6)

After all this the soap should not be used until it has been aired for about one month or so It should be stacked so that air can get around it, but without sunlight or water being able to get near it.

After it has "dried", you can polish it with a clean cloth if you wish. 

SOAP MAKING METHODS

As shown in the chart above, the methods given here can make one of three kinds of soap:

Soft liquid soap

Hard clothes washing soap ("laundry soap")

Hard soap for washing people ("toilet" soap). 

It depends on the quality of the things used to make soap, and how far the method is followed, as to which kind of soap ends up being made. 

SOAP MAKING

Three large cast iron or stainless steel pots are needed the largest pot has to be twice the size of the next biggest one.

In one of the smaller pots melt the amount of fat that you want to use, over a hot fire. In the other of the smaller pots heat lye water. To give you an idea of how much lye water you will need overall, twelve pounds of clean rendered beef tallow (4.4 kg or -13 pints or nearly thirty cups of melted tallow) needs about 20 gallons of lye water (96 litre =160 pints) to completely make soap. 

You will not use all of this up at once. Approx one pint of melted grease reacts with about 12 pints lye water (at egg floating strength). Many things can upset this balance. That is what the "proving" methods help to sort out. (If you are going to "re-work" and add oils or fats at the end of the method, you will have to allow for about a 1/5th more lye water for that as well.)

When melting the grease, put half an inch (1cm) of water to stop it burning in the pot at the start. When ready, put the big Pot on the fire and spoon into it one fourth (¼) of the melted grease. On big jobs, another person should pour in one quarter (¼) of the hot lye water, while the first person stirs the mixture with a wooden stirrer. Continue to add lye and grease, one person after the other, while stirring very well. Keep heating the mixture. The liquid will become stringy and muddy-looking. Continue to add lye water until the mixture looks quite clear, and not so muddy.

If a thick scum of grease forms on top, more lye is needed. If the soap mixture does not thicken, and no scum appears, more grease is needed. 

If there is a strong thin white streak against brown, then more lye is needed.

Some mixture dropped on a smooth glass or China plate, will not split up in to oil and water, but will stay the same. If this does not happen, keep stirring for some time if it has -then add more lye until all the fats or oil disappears.

The mixture should eventually look like cream or light caramel or light brown rice.

Now the mixture is tested by a method called "proving". 

"PROVING"

There are three methods for "proving" given here. Although only one needs to be used, using them all is a good idea when making soap for the first few times. 

Proving Method A

Take a clean knife. Lift some soap from the pot on the knife and hold it over a cold plate. If the soap turns whitish and falls from the knife in short pieces, there is too much lye - add more grease (or oil if you are reworking the "green" soap).

If the soap falls from the knife in long ropy pieces, it needs more lye.

The soap is said to be ok, "When it stands transparent (almost clear) on the knife, neither too white nor too ropy". 

Proving Method B

Take a one inch by one inch (approx 2 x 3 cm) bit of the soap mixture out of the boiling pot, and put on a glass or "fired clay" plate (China plate).

If it cools transparent with whitish streaks and specks it is "done".

If it is grey and weak-looking or has a grey bit around the outside, it needs more lye.

If there is a grey skin over it, more fat needs to be added 

Proving Method C

This method is known as the "ribbon test". It is very useful towards the end of boiling.

Take two teaspoons of mixture out of the pot and cool it on a plate.

When cooled, take some of the soap off the plate, and press between the thumb and forefinger. The soap should come out from between your fingers looking like shiny ribbons with dull (opaque) ends, and be clear when held up to the light.

If the cooled bit of mixture comes out from between your fingers in the shape of threads, then there is too much water left in the soap, more boiling down is needed.

If the dull ends of the piece of soap between your fingers, first can be seen then disappear, then the soap is too greasy or oily and needs more lye. If the soap is grainy, or turbid (all mixed up looking) and a bit whitish, there is probably too much lye, and more grease or oil is needed. 

Proving Method -"Tasting"

This is not a main method, and takes some experience to get right.

Taste some cooled soap mixture on the tip of the tongue. A sharp "bite" or "burn" shows that there is too much lye in the soap mixture While no "bite" at all, shows that there is too much grease stir and/or add more lye.

A good soap should give a little bite on the tongue. 

"DONENESS"

Keep boiling the mixture until the froth settles down into the pot. Large white bubbles will "pop'" over the top of the mixture, as if the soap is "talking". If not sure - then use Method C. The soap can either now be stored as "soft" (liquid) soap in a wooden, or other "safe container", OR it can be turned into "hard" or solid soap. 

"HARD SOAP"

Salt absorbs water, and will attract it more than the soap mixture does. By adding few handfuls to a large mixture, or less to smaller pots, the soap will float on top of the rest of the mixture.

A brownish looking liquid will sink to the right of the pot, and the soap will float on the top.

The method is very much like the last step of "washing" fat adding salt, when making grease.

Here as well, the top layer is left to go cold It is then taken (or "skimmed") off the surface of the cold mixture.

Slowly melt it and add a little water (depending on how much "skimmed" soap you have).

Heat this in a safe pot, and after boiling for only a few minutes, add salt again. Leave to cool and then "skim" again.

Now at this point, you may either remelt and color (and/or add perfumes) to the soap, and pour into moulds to harden and set, (or to improve its quality it may be melted and "re-worked" 

"RE-WORKING"

Some of the amount of grease used to "re-work" the soap can be added as oil. Coconut oil is said to be the best.

The grease being used may be perfumed. If you are to add perfumed grease at this point, then use more petals in treating the grease when perfuming it). 

To the remelted "green" soap, add more grease and or oil, until it is all melted, then add more lye until the mixture has a "bite" or "burn" to its taste. Continue heating and stirring (not too much stirring) and follow the general method for Soap Making ("proving" and watching for "doneness".) When "done", pour out into moulds and set. Grating means using sharp metal to break soap up into small pieces. Cutting the soap with a sharp knife is ok, but does not do the best job.

 

Homemade Soap

3 Cans lye

10 quarts water

12 pounds lard or old grease (clean). Must be animal fat.

18 quarts water

Mix the lye and ten quarts of water, and bring to a boil. Add twelve pounds lard or old clean grease and boil it slowly for one hour. Then add eighteen quarts of water and continue cooking. When the mixture is the consistency of heavy syrup, pour it into a mold. Cut into bars when cold.

 

Soapmaking 101 

Staying clean during a survival situation can be critical: the inability to properly wash your hands can transfer

Heart of Iowa Soapworks offers the best in custom, handmade soaps.

contamination and seriously affect your health!  At some point, you might  run out of handsoap. Here’s a recipe from soapmaking expert Karla Moore that uses two ingredients to produce a very mild and usable cleansing bar!

by Karla Moore

Soapmaking is a skill that is easily learned, and you can soon figure out how to make your own special blends.

But don’t even think about starting soapmaking without the proper safety gear, and don’t make soap around small children! The lye used in the soapmaking process can seriously injure or kill you! When the lye/water solution is cool, it is very caustic, but looks like drinking water. In one documented instance,  a person unknowingly drank lye solution,  and died from it!

Don’t try to make soap unless you are willing to follow safety precautions!

With this warning understood, here’s what you need to know:

Use only containers and utensils made of stainless steel, heavy plastic or pyrex. Use absolutely nothing made of aluminum – lye reacts to the metal and that chemical interaction will completely ruin the soap and pan.

Equipment needed:

• digital scale accurate to .1 oz. (1/10^th oz.)
• thermometer
• large stainless steel pot to melt oils and mix soap in
• stainless steel slotted spoon or wooden spoon (that will never to be used for food again)
• rubber spatula
• 2 quart Rubbermaid or equivalent pitcher for mixing lye (Mark it plainly, so there is no way to mistake the contents for water!)
• small container to measure lye. ( A one-pound margarine tub, with a lid, works fine.)
• small stainless or glass container to measure optional fragrance
• plastic container or soap mold to pour soap in (Rubbermaid containers work great!)
• immersion (stick) blender or stainless steel whisk

Safety Gear:

• rubber gloves
• eye protection
• face mask to protect you from lye fumes
• old long-sleeved shirt and/or apron to protect clothes

It never hurts to have extra containers on hand to measure and weigh ingredients.  Stainless steel is your friend – watch those garage sales!

Soap Formula

Rendered Tallow or Lard    5 pounds

Sodium Hydroxide (lye)      10.5 oz.

Water    16 oz.

Every ingredient must be WEIGHED

1.  Measure Sodium Hydroxide into small container observing safety rules for handling chemicals.  This means using a mask, eye protection and rubber gloves.

 2.  Measure 16 oz. COLD Water into the lye pitcher.  You may also use ice or ice/water mixture if shorter cooling time is desired. If using ice the mixture must be weighed.

3.   Slowly add Sodium Hydroxide to the cold water.  Stir gently and thoroughly until mixed.  DO NOT BREATHE IN THE FUMES!  Set aside to cool.

You may remove your safety protection for the next couple of steps. Then:

1. Measure tallow into stainless steel pan. Set on low heat to melt.  When melted, remove from heat source to cool.
2. While the oils and lye water are cooling, measure out your fragrance oil (optional) and line your soap mold if desired. Clean & dry milk cartons make good molds.  Just peel off the carton after the soap has set up for 24 hours.  Remember DO NOT use anything aluminum!

Put on Safety Equipment!

Check the temperature of the lye water and melted oils.  They should be in a range from 100º- 115º Now combine the ingredients to make soap!

1. Slowly pour the lye water into the melted oils stirring constantly until combined.  You may continue to hand stir if or, as I prefer, use a stick blender!  Stick blend off and on until the mixture starts to thicken and leaves a wave after the blender.  This is called trace: think of trace as a warm pudding- like texture.  When stirred, it leaves a trail behind the spoon.
2. Quickly stir in the fragrance and blend well.
3. Pour into prepared mold and cover with a heavy towel to insulate.

Leave the raw soap undisturbed for 24-48 hours before removing from mold. After this time, it is safe to cut into bars and place in a well-ventilated area to cure and dry out.  I recommend letting your soap cure for at least 3-4 weeks before using.  The longer the bars cure, the better they will be. Water continuously evaporates off, leaving a harder bar that lasts longer in the shower.  Handmade soap is at its best when it’s at least a month old.
.

Raw soap may be wiped out with paper towels and the pots and pans washed like normal.  Wear rubber gloves when handwashing –  new, raw soap is very caustic.

Coconut oil may be purchased from a grocery or Asian food store.  It is used to pop popcorn and may come in a golden yellow color.  This is perfectly fine to use and it lends a nice orange/yellow tinge to the finished product.

To buy sodium hydroxide (lye) look in the plumbing section of a hardware store.  The container MUST say 100% Sodium Hydroxide and be dry flakes or granules, not liquid.  If the material in the container has colored specks  DO NOT USE! It contains heavy metals and is unsuitable for soap making.

Karla Moore, expert soapmaker
 

Karla Moore is a professional soaper, and owns and operates “Heart of Iowa” soapworks near Gilbert, Iowa. She started making soaps for her own personal use, and started her business in April, 2000. Karla has very sensitive skin and is allergic to the detergents used in most commercial soaps. Her experimentation, and earlier training as a cosmetologist,  subsequently lead to a special line of soaps designed for people with allergies or similar skin conditions.

Today, Karla sells soap products all over the world and offers a complete line of  scented and specialty soaps, shampoo bars, and custom blends. Karla specializes in soaps for people with allergies and also teaches soapmaking classes. She enjoys visiting with both beginner and  experienced soapers.

Check out her blog and website at:  karla@iasoaps.com.